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North End
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Shadowdance 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lee Munson and Steve Pachman circa 1984
Page Views: 1,851
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Nov 22, 2007

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Fun on Shadowdance circa 1996. Climber Julian Smit...

Description 

This proud route is located at the far end (from the Amphitheater) of the 1st North End cliff. The first pitch is what usually gets done, because it is a more reasonable and totally classic at 5.10. The second pitch, which is a bit more serious, sees fewer ascents. The best approach is to combine both pitches into the mega classic send.
The start of Shadowdance is to be found about 25 feet to the left of Nutsweat, in a sweet, clean lie-back flack. Crank this up to a ledge and get some good gear in for the finger cracks that lead up into a right facing dihedral. There is an anchor at a stance where one can lower to the ground. Or… find the super secret number 6 BD nut placement above the anchor and crank out onto the second pitch. A little gear can be sussed out here and there. Mostly it is an adventure is finding some small stuff that will hold your confidence. Continue up and around the left side of the huge roofs above to finish at the Nutsweat anchor. Rappel from here to the ground with two ropes. Enjoy!


Protection 

Gear consists of a standard Moore’s Wall rack supplemented with some RP’s or other brassies.



Photos of Shadowdance Slideshow Add Photo
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian Smith; photographer Brian Talbert.
Shadowdance 2nd pitch circa 1996. Climber Julian S...
working the stem moves on P1
working the stem moves on P1
Comments on Shadowdance Add Comment
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By Tim Fisher
Jun 4, 2009

This route is serious but really badass. Fall at the crux can be big but clean. Double ropes - brown pants!