Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | M. Brooks, L. Smith, 1982 |
Page Views: | 972 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 15, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The route as described in the Eldorado Guidebook do not exist, or at least the significant locating features do not. Particularly, there is no "large, left-facing, obtuse dihedral" anywhere near this area. All of them are right-facing... The topo appears to be more or less correct though, so the route as described below is as per the topo, and is as nearly as we could figure this route goes.
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet to where a 12 foot juniper tree grows up nearly against the wall near a small overhang just above the ground. About 35' up you will see another conifer just aside of an inset through a bulge/roof.
Climb up through the overhang just off the ground, to either side of the Juniper; either side can be made 5.8 or so. Climb up and toward the inset of the roof just left of the pine above, and into the little cove. The moves up and left through this roof are harder than they appear fromt he ground, but it seems that no matter where you go they will not be 5.10. More like 5.7 or 5.8. Perhaps the 5.10 version on the right was a result of dodging all the good holds for fear of suspect rock?
Continue to the top of the wall on easy moves, zig-zagging a bit though 5.5 territory, and then belay from the ledge above. The route is boring overall, with the only real excitement coming from trying to avid dropping head-sized loose rocks on your belayer as you climb.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet to where a 12 foot juniper tree grows up nearly against the wall near a small overhang just above the ground. About 35' up you will see another conifer just aside of an inset through a bulge/roof.
Climb up through the overhang just off the ground, to either side of the Juniper; either side can be made 5.8 or so. Climb up and toward the inset of the roof just left of the pine above, and into the little cove. The moves up and left through this roof are harder than they appear fromt he ground, but it seems that no matter where you go they will not be 5.10. More like 5.7 or 5.8. Perhaps the 5.10 version on the right was a result of dodging all the good holds for fear of suspect rock?
Continue to the top of the wall on easy moves, zig-zagging a bit though 5.5 territory, and then belay from the ledge above. The route is boring overall, with the only real excitement coming from trying to avid dropping head-sized loose rocks on your belayer as you climb.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
Photos
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