Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension 
Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Candy-O 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Remention 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Schizophrenia 
Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Suparete 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Shadow 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Brooks, L. Smith, 1982
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The route as described in the Eldorado Guidebook do not exist, or at least the significant locating features do not. Particularly, there is no "large, left-facing, obtuse dihedral" anywhere near this area. All of them are right-facing... The topo appears to be more or less correct though, so the route as described below is as per the topo, and is as nearly as we could figure this route goes.

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet to where a 12 foot juniper tree grows up nearly against the wall near a small overhang just above the ground. About 35' up you will see another conifer just aside of an inset through a bulge/roof.

    Climb up through the overhang just off the ground, to either side of the Juniper; either side can be made 5.8 or so. Climb up and toward the inset of the roof just left of the pine above, and into the little cove. The moves up and left through this roof are harder than they appear fromt he ground, but it seems that no matter where you go they will not be 5.10. More like 5.7 or 5.8. Perhaps the 5.10 version on the right was a result of dodging all the good holds for fear of suspect rock?

    Continue to the top of the wall on easy moves, zig-zagging a bit though 5.5 territory, and then belay from the ledge above. The route is boring overall, with the only real excitement coming from trying to avid dropping head-sized loose rocks on your belayer as you climb.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.


    Protection 

    A set of nuts and a set of cams from 0.5-3". A helmet and pads for your belayer.



    Comments on Shadow Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Peter Gram
    Administrator
    From: Park City, UT
    Jul 13, 2003

    I think that I may have found the 5.10 variation. The cove mentioned in the description is the biggest weakness in the roof and probably only 5.7. The 10 is about 5 feet right going up a dirty crack with vertical pinches for holds. This variation also deserves 0 stars - extremely dirty, loose, and discontinuous because of the huge ledge.