|Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation|
P1 - Ascend the compact face on good rock to a big ledge. (5.10d)
P2 - The next pitch is slightly overhanging for 90' until the angle kicks back. Look for ledges on the right...big holds. (5.10)
P3 - Climb a steep slab traversing left to a short overhanging hand crack. Protect this and the crack above with cams. (5.9)
P4 - Short easy, scrambling leads to a belay next to a prominent dead tree...loose rubble on ledges. Be careful.
P5 - Bolt protected face leads 90' to a belay ledge. (5.7 or 5.8)
P6 - Diagonal up & left to a steep section...good finger pockets. A hand sized crack leads to a large ledge/ramp near the top. Belay at a single bolt higher on the ledge. (5.10b)
P7 - walk 35' left to a short steep wall. Ascend this, on great rock to an arÍte. Follow this to to the summit. (5.10)
Have fun and as usual, watch for loose stuff. Most belays are protected.
North face of Devil's Castle. Begin 100 right of Evil Eye, just left of a 30' pillar.
1 set TCU's, 1 each Camalots #.5 to .75; 1 each Camalots #1-3 many runners
Bsmoot gettin' his steep on. Pitch 2. Shadow of ...
BETA PHOTO: Shadow of the Blade route location
Pitch 3. Bolt protected traverse to hand crack. ...
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Aug 13, 2008
My partner and I both really enjoyed this route. It seemed like this had more climbing and less scrambling than some of the other Devils Castle routes; on some sections you could almost say that the rock is pretty good. Pitch 2 is great, but there are good hard sections on several other pitches. Take some cams for sure for the pitch 3 crack; I think we placed #.75, 1, 2, and 3 camalots and an extra #1 or #2 would have been nice; it isn't that hard but it's overhanging and that rock is kind of spooky. There were a couple of other spots where we placed a cam on easier terain. Take lots of draws and full-length slings. There are good, safe bolted belays. You top out just to the west of Black Streak, so rap it for the descent.
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 26, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Very good route, feels more sporty than others on the wall with really interesting sequences in the 5.10 sections.
P1 hits you in the face right away with a tricky roof, I thought it was hard for 10b and maybe harder than the 10c pitches. P2 is really fun, steep and sustained with holds appearing out of nowhere right when you need them. The crack on P3 bites (read: sharp) but protects really well. I placed one of each BD #1, #2 and #3 and didn't feel the need for doubles.
Run p4 and p5 together and enjoy the really cool moves on P6 and P7.
I think we used a .75 on p7 and that's about it for the gear, the whole thing felt really safe.
Watch for loose rock and breaking holds, keep your head down, it's Devil's Castle!
|By James Garrett|
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I might have to reaccess my favorite DC route. We forgot our MP topo, but no problems with orientation. The protection is not PG, it is excellent. Loved it!
We rappelled Black Streak. All pretty clean rockfall free pulls. 70m rope seems to be the best for all DC climbing.
Aug 29, 2010
Good route, lots of climbing, not as much chossing around as some of the other climbs. Like James also forgot topo, thought we were on Evil Eye.
No problems rte finding and good gear where you need it.
I linked p3 and 4 together as the belay is right in line below if you knock anything off.
Good work Brian's.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All the 5.10 pitches are great with some thoughtful sequences. The 2nd pitch is steep and the edges are sharp - the second might appreciate 2 ropes as opposed to a single rope. Really only need a single set of 3 or 4 cams 1-3 inches and plenty of draws/long slings if you want to cut weight. I only use them on the 3rd pitch and it protects very well. Its an easy walk off with no risk of rockfall if you hike.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Aug 12, 2012
Good route. Great "sporty" climbing with chosslicious goodness. We climbed it as a 3 party, and all felt the first pitch was harder than the second. I would rate the first pitch 5.10d and the second 5.10a/b. The first pitch has a strange sequence and some committing moves over clean rock. The second pitch is glorious and steep with jugs abound. The 5.8 pitch felt 5.6, and the 5.10c section on the second to last pitch seemed hard, but eased after I could visually see the moves. The last pitch is a great, steep, and sporty @ 5.10d to a great summit.
We climbed it using only one #.75, one #1, two #2, and one #3 camalots.
We had also had 8 slings and used all of them.
I felt this route is more sustained than Horns of Satan, Black Streak, and Gothic Pillar.
Once again, good route and sincere thanks to the Brians for the hard work!
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 26, 2013
This is the best route on the Castle. Two awesome 5.10 bolt pitches to a 5.9 hand crack, and that's only half the route!
From: SLC, UT
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The first three pitches are great. Be careful with rockfall on the 4th and 5th. Large blocks can (and were) knocked off. Helmet mandatory! Protection felt fine, I don't think PG13 is needed.
Jul 17, 2014
Best choss guzzle up here IMHO.