Shadow of the Blade 

My partner and I both really enjoyed this route. It seemed like this had more climbing and less scrambling than some of the other Devils Castle routes; on some sections you could almost say that the rock is pretty good. Pitch 2 is great, but there are good hard sections on several other pitches. Take some cams for sure for the pitch 3 crack; I think we placed #.75, 1, 2, and 3 camalots and an extra #1 or #2 would have been nice; it isn't that hard but it's overhanging and that rock is kind of spooky. There were a couple of other spots where we placed a cam on easier terain. Take lots of draws and full-length slings. There are good, safe bolted belays. You top out just to the west of Black Streak, so rap it for the descent.

Very good route, feels more sporty than others on the wall with really interesting sequences in the 5.10 sections.
P1 hits you in the face right away with a tricky roof, I thought it was hard for 10b and maybe harder than the 10c pitches. P2 is really fun, steep and sustained with holds appearing out of nowhere right when you need them. The crack on P3 bites (read: sharp) but protects really well. I placed one of each BD #1, #2 and #3 and didn't feel the need for doubles.
Run p4 and p5 together and enjoy the really cool moves on P6 and P7.
I think we used a .75 on p7 and that's about it for the gear, the whole thing felt really safe.
Watch for loose rock and breaking holds, keep your head down, it's Devil's Castle!

I might have to reaccess my favorite DC route. We forgot our MP topo, but no problems with orientation. The protection is not PG, it is excellent. Loved it!
We rappelled Black Streak. All pretty clean rockfall free pulls. 70m rope seems to be the best for all DC climbing.

Good route, lots of climbing, not as much chossing around as some of the other climbs. Like James also forgot topo, thought we were on Evil Eye.
No problems rte finding and good gear where you need it.
I linked p3 and 4 together as the belay is right in line below if you knock anything off.

Good work Brian's.

All the 5.10 pitches are great with some thoughtful sequences. The 2nd pitch is steep and the edges are sharp - the second might appreciate 2 ropes as opposed to a single rope. Really only need a single set of 3 or 4 cams 1-3 inches and plenty of draws/long slings if you want to cut weight. I only use them on the 3rd pitch and it protects very well. Its an easy walk off with no risk of rockfall if you hike.

Good route. Great "sporty" climbing with chosslicious goodness. We climbed it as a 3 party, and all felt the first pitch was harder than the second. I would rate the first pitch 5.10d and the second 5.10a/b. The first pitch has a strange sequence and some committing moves over clean rock. The second pitch is glorious and steep with jugs abound. The 5.8 pitch felt 5.6, and the 5.10c section on the second to last pitch seemed hard, but eased after I could visually see the moves. The last pitch is a great, steep, and sporty @ 5.10d to a great summit.
We climbed it using only one #.75, one #1, two #2, and one #3 camalots.
We had also had 8 slings and used all of them.
I felt this route is more sustained than Horns of Satan, Black Streak, and Gothic Pillar.
Once again, good route and sincere thanks to the Brians for the hard work!


Stevie