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Shadow Nose 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: Laine on Jan 17, 2012

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1- follow the easy right-leaning crack to a slab. Climb the unprotected slab 40' to a large ledge with a horizontal crack (belay)
P2- move left then climb the slab up and right to the base of a finger crack, follow to its end, move right to another crack (1 piton) then climb up the slab to a bolted belay (1 bolt and pins)
P3- move up and right on slab passing a old-school hanger. Either 1)angle right to the base of a right-leaning crack (belay) or 2)continue up the slab (bolted belay?)
P4- depending on which way you came from 1) Follow the easy right-leaing crack and top out same as boltway (fun and protected) or 2)follow the slab to the top (not as fun).

Location 

Located on the same ledge as Herm Flake, climber's left of West Country. This fun climb is a good choice if Herm flake is crowded. Several options exist to top this climb out, some spicier than others.

Protection 

Gear to 4


Comments on Shadow Nose Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 11, 2016

A spicier way to finish this route is to follow the original Shadow Nose route as shown in Tuolumne Free Climbs, Second Edition, Aug 2009 ... although it appears someone has remove some of the spice by adding a bolt to P2.
By Tony Lewis
Aug 16, 2016

The 2006 Reid/Falkenstein Guide shows the bolt on P2 and it's been there for years. It was a 1/4" Leeper which was replaced by Roger Brown about three weeks ago so it was more then likely original.

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