The largest and tallest section of the Ibex cliff band, the Shadow Buttress is an impressive sight to behold. Its name was probably taken from the shadow that it casts across its northern flanks. An enormous dihedral splits through the center of the buttress, and a gigantic grey roof looms above the boulders below. The rock quality here is sporadic, and may clean up with increased traffic. However, traffic does not exist at Ibex.
Park at the highball boulder problems at the edge of the hardpan. Hike straight up to the base of the cliff for about two minutes.
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Shadow Buttress
Nose Shadow 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b UT
: Shadow Buttress
A rad outing, up a proud feature. Be prepared for a plethora of climbing terrain and some memorable pitches on quality stone. P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feetP2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
News and Events For Shadow Buttress
Looking to get sucked in?
On the 2nd of 4 pitches of the middle route up Sha...
Crux on P2; middle route
On the first pitch of the original rout...
|Comments on Shadow Buttress
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
Apr 28, 2009
I went bouldering at Ibex several times before realizing that there were any sport routes up the buttress. After getting a little beta, we went up the middle of the buttress which works through four pitches of well protected rock. The second pitch makes the whole effort worth it by far. Although the rock is chossy in a few places (if you're going to pull something off it'll be the first pitch), overall the climb is very sustained and deceivingly hard. There are plenty of belay stations, many at good locations, and the exposure is phenomenal. Take at least 25 draws. The buttress can be rapped down with two 60m double rope rappels.
P1: (5.11+/-) depending on if you go middle right or middle left
P2: (5.12+) most of this pitch is actually much easier, however the last 20ft gets increasingly harder right before you pull out of the roof.
P3: (5.12) this pitch is the longest of the four and will create some drag. I was glad to get my shoes off after leading this one. If you're trying to reach the cave/ledge, then continue just past the obvious belay station and then traverse right for 30 Ft. There are chains on the edge.
P4: (5.11) the shortest and easiest of the 4 pitches, although by this time you're quite tired. The top is closer than it looks, but don't get anxious and pass the chains since they're not right on top. Great View!
|By James Garrett|
May 9, 2009
Nice send, the route you climbed and included photos of is called Desert King, 4 pitches, FA by Tim Toula who graded it 5.13a, but it had only been free climbed once before. Not sure about the 30 ft. (DK continues to the top straight up?) rightward traverse, sounds like you left DK and finished via Nose Shadow, the original route on the wall? Good job! Thanks for your comments
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
May 23, 2009
Thanks James I'm glad someone here knows and can clarify more about the buttress. I hope I didn't confuse anyone with my original beta. I made the traverse after the 3rd pitch over to the cave to see what there was. All I could find was a set of chains and one bolt; however there is a chance I just didn't see the original line. I then traversed back to DK and finished straight up.
It seems like you know a lot, perhaps you can shed light on the many other routes up the buttress. I'm honestly not sure what the ratings should be since I fell a few times, but if it's a 13a than that might explain things.