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Jamcrack Wall
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Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam T 

Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, late'70s
Page Views: 909
Submitted By: Brian Prince on Nov 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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oh yeah

Description 

Start below the crack and head up a little seam with no pro (5.7) and some moss. Reach a good stance at the base of the crack. Look up (this thing is steep!) and take some deep breaths. Get in some good gear and commit yourself. If you're a wimp, like me, you can use a face hold out right after you get established. Reach for some fist/arm jams and pull the crux, while imagining being on the FA solo. Struggle on up to a good stance and continue to the top of the crack. Then climb to the anchors passing an old bolt, not that hard.


Location 

Obstructed by trees, but hard to miss if you've found jamcrack wall. Although this is probably how one identifies jamcrack wall.


Protection 

I placed one #.75, one #4, and one #2 (new camalots and in that order). #4 went in at the crux, but I think you could get by with a #3 if you don't want a #4. More or less of the the same depending on what you think. Said old bolt and then one or two pieces for the top. Two bolt anchor. Or move to the left before clipping the bolt for a different two bolt anchor



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By Jim Reynolds
Jun 4, 2011

Ya its definately very possible to do the crux move with a number 3... We even had a #4 but the #3 seemed to be less in the way. Fun route. It looks OW but there are solid fist jams

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Nov 26, 2011

Went with the #3 at the crux. It fits well in the right spot. Not really sure you need any pro there if you have done it before.

By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 18, 2013

I did this again yesterday. Sweet and burly but just a bit short! I placed a 3 in the middle this time too; there is perfect spot for it right in front of your face. Definitely go left after the crack. I didn't even see the anchor straight above. You'll be able to TR some really steep, powerful, bouldery seam/crack too.

By Ryan Nevius
From: The Range of Light
Jul 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

Due to the 20' runout off the deck on suspect rock, an initial crack that is hollow and exfoliating, a very short crux, one of the worst bolts and hangers I've seen on the mountain, and huge, loose blocks at the top of the climb...I'd give this route a half a star after leading it. It's probably more enjoyable as a toprope, unless you're into those kinds of things.

Also, a #3 Camalot protects the crux. I'm not sure why you'd want a #4.