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Turtle Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Desert Shield S 
Integrity S 
Jesus Lives S 
Kippy Korner T 
Lieback and Lingerie T 
Satanic Mechanic S 
Sexy Sadye T 
Wind Burn T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sexy Sadye 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Charles Cole, Steve Anderson (1983)
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 17, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Sexy Sadye, 5.10+


This route is found on the Southeast corner of Turtle Rock, a few hundred feet to the right of Satanic Mechanic. Some smearing, crimping, and a couple mantles take you past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor/rappel. This was incorrectly given an "R" rating in the Joshua Tree West guide. The climb is a fun and well protected lead. There is even a solid gear placement between the 1st and 2nd bolt if you're worried about blowing the 5.7 moves there.


4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rappel
optional .25" cam

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By C Miller
Feb 17, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

All the bolts on this were replaced in Spring 2000.
By Phil Esra
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

At 5'6", the moves below the 2nd bolt are 5.10, and falling = decking. Dangerously run out. You might be able to get an offset mastercam or alien to stick in the shallow flare, but you wouldn't wanna fall on it. Fun, improbable slab moves if you're solid at the grade.
By Richard Shore
Dec 15, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Excellent and bold, great rock and line. 1st bolt at 10', do the math for the rest.. keep your sh@t together!

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