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Freak of the Week T 
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Human Sacrifice S 
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Left Out T 
Lingerie T 
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Sex Party T 
Sherrif, The T 
Sleeping with the Fish T 
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Sex Party 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 84'
Page Views: 3,559
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Using the face to rest

Description 


Although the crack looks splitter from below, the abundance of face holds and stems makes it difficult to climb in good jam fashion. Although a bit contrived, it is more interesting to only jam and to not stem over to Lingerie (this way it actually feels like 10.a).

Either way, fun climb.

Use chain anchor to the right, above Lingerie.

Location 

just right of Savage Heart, left of Lingerie in a right facing corner.

Protection 

rack to 3"


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By Dane
Dec 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage.
By rohanbk
Mar 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :)
By Jerry Drescher
Sep 7, 2015

Agree with Dane, about 5.8/5.8+ for normal Washington trad grades, although fairly true to grade for Vantage.

Extra number ones, or similar size hexes would be nice. Hexes place well and seem less likely to shatter the outside layer of rock.

No need for the number 4. Protects well without it, or you can clip a bolt on the neighbouring route with a long sling from the stanve where you'd place it
By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Feb 16, 2016

Great crack pitch. But highly disagree with calling it a 5.8. No way. If you're a 5.8 trad leader and you try to onsight lead this (which is what pitch grades are based on, an onsight lead), it will not feel 5.8, but every bit the 5.10a rating it is given.

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