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Sex Never did this to my hands T 

Sex Never did this to my hands 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Piana, Paul Muehl & Bob Archbold Sept 1, 1979
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Markus Jobman on Sep 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Sending the lower section of Route. The Overhang s...

Description 

Sex Never Did This to My Hands, is a beautiful Diagonal Crack. Starts on the South East Corner of Vertigo View. Climb to an Overhang and then move left to the face and the Diagonal Crack. Deep Wide Arm Crack.

Great Route that gives a challenge for both the lead and second. Fantastic Diagonal.

MAKE SURE YOU TAPE UP FOR THIS ONE. THE NAME HAS A REASON BEHIND IT...

Location 

This route is located on the South East Corner of Vertigo View. When you are in the Outlets hike the trail that takes you to the North Side of the Inner Outlet. Past Classic Crack. From there the trail goes down a steep trail and Vertigo View is out your left (North Side of Trail). You can begin to see the Diagonal Crack moving up to the left. The Belay/start of the route is on the lower end of Vertigo View.

Protection 

You are going to need a lot of 2.5" plus gear to send this route. Break out those Hexes and Big Bros for this one. It takes gear great I just needs to be large gear.


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Beautiful Diagonal Crack
Beautiful Diagonal Crack

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By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

F.A. Paul Piana, Paul Muehl & Bob Archbold; Sept 1, 1979

After the F.A. group climbed the route Piana exclaimed, "This is better than Sex". Paul Muehl licking the wounds on his mangled paws retorted, "Sex Never Did This To My Hands".

Big cams, hexes and tons of over the shoulder slings make for a more pleasant adventure. Go climb it soon.
By Kirtis
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 28, 2012

Will one 60 m rope get you down from this route?
By R.Walters
Sep 30, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One 60 m is plenty. Rap from slings around a horn.. might want to carry a bit extra to replace if needed. Not that bad w/o tape IMO.
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

what a great route!! starting the route going into the roof/overhang (which you do not climb) gets you excited for what's to come. step out left onto the face and get ready. this climb quickly showed me that i need to work on my crack technique and endurance. just when i thought i was starting to figure out climbing (working 10s, bouldering v5 +) this slapped me in the face. for the first 30+ feet you can get some solid fist jams while working your right foot in the crack as well. just when you're finally pumped out comes the easier terrain, try not to over grip all the good features inside the deep arm crack (as I did) and maybe it will be better than sex for you. felt more like getting violated by, idk, a big hard rock, to me...
By Tim McCabe
Nov 16, 2012

Its been a long time but I know I didn't tape up for this. I do remember there being holds inside the crack. Also there's really no feet so your on your arms more, very atypical for the area.