|Consensus:||Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]|
|Submitted By:||Blitzo on Apr 26, 2008|
|Comments on Sex Magician Sit Start||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Scott Cosgrove
Sep 17, 2013
Can't remember but we may of done this low start BITD (but I can't remember, so it's yours Rob), I know Croft finished by soloing up the crack at the end. Anyway, I think for me SM is a harder traverse than the Dope F. I'd flop the rating, SM V8 and DF - V7 although I wouldn't argue V9 for both.
The DF is more stretched out, move wise and the crux of the SM is very scrunched up, so it might be that I'm 6'2" and that's why I find one harder than the other.
Also, people need to realize how bad the quality of rock was on this things, I imagine it's pretty good now. But we were breaking stuff off and cratering onto the slab on a regular basis.
We always had at lest a couple of pads if not more. I also heard Fred N, did some hard stuff in the cave. Some projects are still there I think...
It sure is a cool local, and I hope people treat it with respect,,,,
Sep 18, 2013
|That sit was such a rotting mess when I scoped it out. There was a sloping chunk that I kept rubbing my hand on and grains were just showering off of it endlessly. The only thing that motivated me to keep trying to clean it was that it was sooooo steep! I also did another nice low start below the crux of Sex Magician. Starts at some nice huecos and busts a huge campus-like move straight into the crux of SM - called that one Man's Right to Imagination and to Insanity (v5ish) Somehow, because of the way you link into SM crux, it makes that crux easier.|