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East Side
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Lost Teva Crack T 
Mannish Boy T,S 
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Mulva S 
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Om On The Range S 
Sex Machine S 
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Sex Machine 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug La Farge
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Sep 6, 2011

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Description 

Ninety vertical feet of crimps and edges. The route starts with interesting pinches and a black patina face. The upper half follows a left leaning weakness that provides an occasional pocket.

This route is in the same vein as 'Standin On A Corner' and 'Bro Job'.


Location 

Located on the East Wall, 'Sex Machine' is downstream from 'Shady Grove' but before 'The Beach'. The left of two sport routes, it starts from the root of a tree.


Protection 

~12 bolts to chains.



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By nature
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Doesn't look like I can edit the FA info so the OP could add - Doug La Farge. And I always thought it to be 11d :)