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East Side
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Girlfriend Route Direct, The 
God Save the Queen 
Lost Teva Crack 
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Negative 29 
Om On The Range 
Sex Machine 
Shiva's Lunchbox 
Skull Fracture 
Soda Special, The 
Special Dark 
Spontaneous Baby Consumption 
Standin On A Corner 
Swamp Thing 

Sex Machine 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug La Farge
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Sep 6, 2011
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Description 

Ninety vertical feet of crimps and edges. The route starts with interesting pinches and a black patina face. The upper half follows a left leaning weakness that provides an occasional pocket.

This route is in the same vein as 'Standin On A Corner' and 'Bro Job'.


Location 

Located on the East Wall, 'Sex Machine' is downstream from 'Shady Grove' but before 'The Beach'. The left of two sport routes, it starts from the root of a tree.


Protection 

~12 bolts to chains.



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By nature
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Doesn't look like I can edit the FA info so the OP could add - Doug La Farge. And I always thought it to be 11d :)