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80 Feet of Meat 
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Sex Machine 
Steroid Power 

Sex Machine 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Floyd, 1995
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 21, 2001
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Description 

About 50 ft right of 80 feet Of Meat are two parallel lines running up 80 ft on good solid Rifle rock. The right of these two is Sex Machine. Crimpers, side pulls, and polished rock abound. Very continuous 5.11 climbing just wears the finger strength down. Some might go with three stars, whatever, nonetheless, I thought that some of the rock was ocassionally dubious, much like 80 ft of Meat. Still, it's an excellent line and worth the burn.


Protection 

A dozen draws and a rope.



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By Neal Carroll
Oct 13, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This route is very good...and certainly deserves more traffic. I finally got around to doing this the past weekend and was dismayed at how dirty/choked with cobwebs the route was...really cool climbing with only a couple of bolts worth of difficult moves. Do yourself a favor a don't get suckered right into the choss above the roof...you'll miss some of the best climbing on the route. And its not as hard as it looks.