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Sex Cave

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Freezer aka The Fridge, The 
Head Cold S 
Head Like a Hole S 
Rubble S 
Stone Cold Head S 
Stone Cold Modern S 

Sex Cave  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

AKA: Pete's Wicked Cave. The Sex Cave is another super rock for those out there climbing in the upper 5.12 to 5.13 range. There are three routes that grace this ceiling crag, the easiest goes at 5.12d, and the hardest at 5.13b/c. All the routes here are excellent, and require some tricky moves to pull through the cruxes. Most of the draws are fixed, so all one needs is a rope, maybe two draws just in case, and lots of finger power. This crag is a good crag for spring, summer and fall, but winter finds it in the shade and quite cold on all but the warmest days. It does provide some shade for summer and would make a good hot weather crag.

Getting There 

The crag is located about 1/2 mile past tunnel three, and is on the north side of the road, slightly out of site from the car. Look for a large pullout on the south side, just past the crag, that has a very large black boulder in it. Park here and walk maybe 50 feet back toward tunnel three to locate a bad trail that leads uphill to the north. Look for a cave with lots of draws hanging from it. Approach time is less than 5 minutes.

L->R: 

A. Head Like A Hole, 12+, 1p, bolts.
AB. Head Cold, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
BA. Stone Cold Head, 13, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Stone Cold Modern, 13, 1p, 30', bolts.
C. Rubble, 13, 1p, bolts.

Across the river:

The Freezer aka The Fridge, V6 PG-13.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sex Cave:
The Freezer aka The Fridge   V6 7A PG13     Boulder   
Head Like a Hole   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Stone Cold Head   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Stone Cold Modern   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Sex Cave

Featured Route For Sex Cave
Leaving the rest after the first crux of Stone Cold Head....

Stone Cold Head 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  CO : Golden : ... : Sex Cave
This is an obvious linkup. Climb the first crux of Stone Cold Modern with its chipped pockets and over-the-head trickery, then finish with the crux of Head Like A Hole. This is a bit easier than the original straight up finish but is much more enjoyable overall!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Sex Cave Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 6, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 25, 2002
Yeah check out the drilled pockets. Those things are hella sweet bro! Go get em'!!!
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 9, 2002
I thought the three routes mentioned were too hard for me, so I drilled a couple of holes for my fingers to pull the moves. Wow! Now that I can climb that hard stuff I feel pretty cool. The routes felt that the grades that were posted didnt change even with my new holds. I think i am going to bring my chizel and make a couple side pulls too. It looks like we can squeeze in some more lines in this cool looking cave.BAD ASS
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 10, 2002
Jeremy, I believe the previous AC was being sarcastic and was appalled as you are at chipped routes.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 28, 2009
This is the worst bolted cliff in the canyon. Don't waste your time.
By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
May 3, 2009
There are a few established routes on the rock above the Sex Cave (one sport route that I found for sure). However, there are two sick splitter cracks in two separate right-facing dihedrals in the same area. I went up there to check them out today and one of them could possible be the best moderate crack in Clear Creek (off to thin hands). My question is, does anyone know if they have been climbed? The one I looked at closly was pretty dirty and definitely hasn't seen an ascent in the recent past. I plan on getting up there in the next week or so and sending them on gear, I was just wondering if it had been done before.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2009
Near Pete's Wicked Sex cave is Rebel Wall.
Sex Cave and Primo are very far apart.
By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
May 5, 2009
So, my gumby nature is showing. By Sex Cave, what I meant was "NOMAD'S CAVE". Goes to show how often I tie in at crags with 12c/d warmups. However, if you look directly above the Nomad's Cave from the road, there are two distinct dihedrals. I'll try to post some photos on the Nomad page as soon as I get back up there.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 5, 2009
I knew what you were talking about Matt, just checkin'. Was the sport route you were lookin at Mildage? this area of rock is a little sketch getting to from the left of the Primo warmups (above Nomad Cave). Have fun with your new route exploring and let us know how they turn out! Post pics!
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 12, 2010
So, are the routes here all chipped/drilled? When I look at the route descriptions, there is no mention of chipping/drilling. Just curious because I am considerably less interested in climbing manufactured rock. Thanks in advance.
EDIT: Thanks, Peter and Pinkle.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 14, 2010
@J Albers, the only actually chipped route is Stone Cold Modern. Rubble is not, nor is Head Like a Hole.
By Pinklebear
Sep 14, 2010
What Peter said. Only two holds as I can recall are chipped on Stone Cold Modern: a couple of pockets at the beginning. Or maybe just one pocket? Sorry; it's been 19 years since I last did the routes here.
By Tank Evans
Jul 6, 2013
This area totally blows, even by CCC standards. It is a shit filled (literally) hole in the ground that has 1 star, or no star manufactured routes. Be advised.