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Sex Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 
Bolus S 
Hyper Salvation S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Learning to Fly S 
Let Them Eat Flake S 
Love is a Fist S 
Mistaken Identity S 
No Recess S 
Super Cruiser S 
Telegraph Road S 

Sex Canyon  


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Page Views: 5,223
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB on Nov 29, 2008
Forecast:
Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Clear
86° | 63°
30° C | 17° C
Clear
87° | 63°
31° C | 17° C
Partly Cloudy
85° | 67°
29° C | 19° C
Partly Cloudy
86° | 65°
30° C | 18° C
Partly Cloudy
80° | 61°
27° C | 16° C
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Rachel on through the hard bit of Let Them Eat Fla...

Description 

Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.

In the left group of routes there are a couple of routes in a prominent white swath of rock then a grey bulge that is home to Bros Before Hoes 5.12+ after this there are a handfull of "unknown" routes that climb out or to the right of a big low roof. The route out the seam in the roof is undone while the routes to the right are about 5.13-.

The center group of routes:
1. No Reccess 5.12
2. Learning to Crawl 5.12c (fixed draws)
3. Super Cruiser 5.13b (fixed cable draws)
4. Learning to Fly 5.12b
4.5. Hyper Salvation 5.13b (link up of 4 and 5 @ the 2nd bolt)
5. Bolus 5.12d (fixed draw on 3rd bolt)
6. Love is a Fist 5.12c
7. Let them Eat Flake 5.12-
8. Blood of the Dead 5.11b
9. Telagraph Road 5.11

The right group of routes:
11. Mistaken Identity 5.11c
12. ?tree corner? 5.10
13. the guide book lists a 3rd line but I did not see it...OH I found it, climbs extreamly fractured rock just right of the previous route

Getting There 

The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.4 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sex Canyon:
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 30'   
Let Them Eat Flake   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Learning to Crawl   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   
Super Cruiser   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Classics in Sex Canyon

Featured Route For Sex Canyon
MattNM kneebaring at the lip of the first roof on Learning to Crawl

Learning to Crawl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon
Start on stalactites up to some jugs. Traverse right on some slopers then up to some pockets, one of which is drilled (if you skip the drilled one, give yourself and extra letter grade) Above the pockets some very slick slopers await before good holds finally appear about 5 feet short of the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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