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Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.
The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.
11 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sex Canyon:
Let Them Eat Flake 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 40'
Learning to Crawl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, Chipped, 40'
Super Cruiser 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 35'
Featured Route For Sex Canyon
Learning to Crawl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon
Start on stalactites up to some jugs. Traverse right on some slopers then up to some pockets, one of which is drilled (if you skip the drilled one, give yourself and extra letter grade) Above the pockets some very slick slopers await before good holds finally appear about 5 feet short of the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in TX
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