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Sex Canyon

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 
Bolus S 
Hyper Salvation S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Learning to Fly S 
Let Them Eat Flake S 
Love is a Fist S 
Mistaken Identity S 
No Recess S 
Super Cruiser S 
Telegraph Road S 

Sex Canyon 


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Page Views: 4,793
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: LeeAB on Nov 29, 2008
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Rachel on through the hard bit of Let Them Eat Flake

Description 

Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.

In the left group of routes there are a couple of routes in a prominent white swath of rock then a grey bulge that is home to Bros Before Hoes 5.12+ after this there are a handfull of "unknown" routes that climb out or to the right of a big low roof. The route out the seam in the roof is undone while the routes to the right are about 5.13-.

The center group of routes:
1. No Reccess 5.12
2. Learning to Crawl 5.12c (fixed draws)
3. Super Cruiser 5.13b (fixed cable draws)
4. Learning to Fly 5.12b
4.5. Hyper Salvation 5.13b (link up of 4 and 5 @ the 2nd bolt)
5. Bolus 5.12d (fixed draw on 3rd bolt)
6. Love is a Fist 5.12c
7. Let them Eat Flake 5.12-
8. Blood of the Dead 5.11b
9. Telagraph Road 5.11

The right group of routes:
11. Mistaken Identity 5.11c
12. ?tree corner? 5.10
13. the guide book lists a 3rd line but I did not see it...OH I found it, climbs extreamly fractured rock just right of the previous route


Getting There 

The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',5],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sex Canyon:
Let Them Eat Flake   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   
Learning to Crawl   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 40'   
Super Cruiser   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Classics in Sex Canyon

Featured Route For Sex Canyon
MattNM kneebaring at the lip of the first roof on Learning to Crawl

Learning to Crawl 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  TX : Reimer's Ranch : Sex Canyon
Start on stalactites up to some jugs. Traverse right on some slopers then up to some pockets, one of which is drilled (if you skip the drilled one, give yourself and extra letter grade) Above the pockets some very slick slopers await before good holds finally appear about 5 feet short of the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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