Sex & Chocolate V7
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BETA PHOTO: Sex & Chocolate ascends using the arete and crimp...
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Description Start on the face right of the arete and make your way to the slopey ledge at 3/4 height using invisible crimps and frictionless slopers. From here traverse right and off.
Location If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. Sex & Chocolate should be on your right.
Protection Landing is pretty benign.
Vince getting a little sex and chocolate.
| Cool shot, my headlamp was doing wild things. Phot...
| Visualizing the send, but it will have to wait.
| RV getting after it.
| Eyeing the crimp.
| Hiking my foot for the throw.
| Kelsen channeling Louie Armstrong.
| Rumors are true, Rhoads went bouldering(only after...
| Vinny...blows.
| The cleaning crew on the direct. Photo: Vince
| Sex & Chocolate Photo: Sarah B
| Photo: Sarah B
| RV, gettin some
| A different take...
| Tony B. styling the beginning of Sex and Chocolate...
| Remo guns for the Jug.
| Katie at the start.
| Katie on S & C.
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| Comments on Sex & Chocolate |
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By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Jan 21, 2009
| I'm throwing some star ratings onto the harder boulder problems because they wouldn't show up in the "Best Routes for You in this area" without a quality rating. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Jun 12, 2009 rating: V7
| The dyno move is so far. I finally made a couple good goes, but man that is a big move. |
By Trad Nanny Jul 2, 2009
| Got on this thing to day, seemed nice but the friction was no good in the mild temps. A colder day would be much better. Traverse right? I say "Sex and Chocolate Direct". I guess I'll have to do the bottom first though, eh? |
By SteveSchultz Jul 3, 2009
| I've been saying the same thing for years rhoads. Direct looks doable. there are holds. we should throw a rope over it someday. |
By Paul Jones From: Madison, WI Jul 11, 2009
| Best, Hardest problem I ever did at The Lake. Brought my 70 year old parents there one year and did it for them. One of the most beautiful little areas in the park. Always feels special to be there. |
By SteveSchultz Oct 26, 2009
| Big credit due to both Gabe and Aaron for sending this rig this past Saturday!! Nice work!! |
By Dobbe Oct 27, 2009
| Gabe and Aaron had great beta. This thing always felt weird and today no problem. |
By Langlois From: NYC Oct 27, 2009
| Nice work! You'll have to share the beta on Saturday so Seth and I can embarrass ourselves |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Nov 18, 2009 rating: V7
| If you enjoy bouldering at the Lake, than this problem is a must try- great problem! I was going to go for the direct, but no spotter and a dirty head-wall did not spark confidence. A little bit of cleaning and I think the line will go. |
By SteveSchultz Nov 18, 2009
| Nice Remo! This thing is getting worked this year!! |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Nov 21, 2009 rating: V7
| So we went up and cleaned off the upper part of S&C but failed to send. Both sides of the arete are in play, but the moves are tricky and high off the deck. Bring the spotters and all the pads you can round up. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Mar 16, 2010 rating: V7
| Committed to the direct today ground up. Stuck the crux on S&C, traversed right and started going up. Got spooked out when I looked down and noticed how far the ground was and how small Vince looked. 2 1/2 pads is not enough for a landing zone. The direct is for real, bring all the pads! |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Mar 17, 2010
| silly... 2 and a half pads might as well be 2 and a half rocks from up there. lol. yikes |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Mar 18, 2010 rating: V7
| Tried the direct today and fell at the lip. Big, big fall, not fun. Then tried on TR, pumped out and fell at lip. Next time, so frustrated! |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Mar 18, 2010
| wow. ballsy. glad you're ok man! |
By Langlois From: NYC Mar 21, 2010
| Remo sent the direct today. Free no rope. Epic! |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Mar 21, 2010
| Wow Remo, nicely done!!! |
By Tony Brengosz May 2, 2010 rating: V5-6
| The right exit is much scarier than the left exit. |
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 22, 2011
| Eric Zschiesche on the FA, and he was fired up on the line, the send, and the Oldstyles we were putting down as well... I don't remember them well, but I know they were the good old days... Summer of 99. |
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