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 ADVANCED
Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T,S 
Agronaut, The S 
Banana Head S 
Bete Noir T,S 
Big Papa T 
Big Rip, The S 
Bon Temps Rouler T 
Confederacy of Dunces T,S 
Dance Connection S 
Dikenstein S 
End of the Tether T 
Eyeless in Gaza S 
Frigid Relations S 
Mithras S 
Pastryworks S 
Promised Land, The S 
Razor Crack T 
Romper Room S 
Rough Boys T 
Sewer Rat  T 
Shadowline T 
She's Crafty S 
Stiletto T 
Sundog Delight  S 
Tar and Feather T 
Tits Out for the Lads T 
Vanishing Point S 
Vultures T 
Yellow Matter Custard S 

Sewer Rat  

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Aid: High and Dry (A3). FFA (renamed Sewer Rat) by Dave Sharratt
Page Views: 1,221
Submitted By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009

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Aid Description 

Free climb or hooks off the ground treding right into a right facing corner. A couple of tricky moves moves and a huge gut busting reach to a suspect pin gets you into the roof proper. Easy aid gets you to bolted anchors under the roof. A second pitch is easily possible.

Free Description 

The corner up into the roof is sporty to say the least. There was a fixed nut halfway up the corner, which feels like insecure 5.10, and then the sequence getting into the roof proper entails a very hard boulder problem with two poor knifeblades for pro. The climbing out the roof looked gut-wrenching, not to mention that rope drag gets horrible when you pull onto the face; I think that [Dave] used two ropes and unclipped from one at the lip of the roof. --Jeremiah Johnson

Location 

Starts in the middle corner of the left roof or about 15 feet to the right of The Argonaut.


Comments on Sewer Rat Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 18, 2009

It's probably best not to nail this route, as it has gone free.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 19, 2009

That's incredible, when did it go? Pictures? Did you get to see it go down, all the aid routes are slowly drying up :-( But it's great to see them have new life breathed into them. I remember the gear being, umm, aid like. Was any new fixed gear added? The moves into and traversing out of the roof must have been amazing! Isn't that anchor in a weird spot.
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Feb 28, 2010

I don't think Dave added any gear; I belayed him a few times when he was working this and I tried the the first part of the route on toprope a few times, and the corner up into the roof is sporty to say the least. There was a fixed nut halfway up the corner, which feels like insecure 5.10, and then the sequence getting into the roof proper entails a very hard boulder problem with two poor knifeblades for pro. The climbing out the roof looked gut-wrenching, not to mention that rope drag gets horrible when you pull onto the face; I think that he used two ropes and unclipped from one at the lip of the roof.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 28, 2010

Hey Jeremy and nhclimber. I have integrated the two (free and aid) descriptions into the route posting. What do you think?
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Mar 1, 2010

Looks good to me; maybe it'll motivate someone to go out and try that roof and they can give a first-hand description of that section. It looked just brutally hard.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 1, 2010

I'm with Jeremy, I'd love to hear the first hand account.

I know the KB placements that you mentioned Jeremy, I cannot imagine free climbing above these, they shifted as I reached up to the roof.

So whats left at sundown, the two roof cracks to the left of toothless grin (a3, a4), razor crack (c1) (this will go), I know there is an umcompleted line that traverses the left hand margine of the right roof (a4)

Band M has some unsent winners as well, I know that some have seen TR attempts. What's next!