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 ADVANCED
Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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Agent Orange 
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Dikenstein 
End of the Tether 
Eyeless in Gaza 
Frigid Relations 
Mithras 
Pastryworks 
Promised Land, The 
Razor Crack 
Romper Room 
Rough Boys 
Sewer Rat  
Shadowline 
She's Crafty 
Stiletto 
Sundog Delight  
Tar and Feather 
Tits Out for the Lads 
Vanishing Point 
Vultures 
Yellow Matter Custard 

Sewer Rat  

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Aid: High and Dry (A3). FFA (renamed Sewer Rat) by Dave Sharratt
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
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Aid Description 

Free climb or hooks off the ground treding right into a right facing corner. A couple of tricky moves moves and a huge gut busting reach to a suspect pin gets you into the roof proper. Easy aid gets you to bolted anchors under the roof. A second pitch is easily possible.


Free Description 

The corner up into the roof is sporty to say the least. There was a fixed nut halfway up the corner, which feels like insecure 5.10, and then the sequence getting into the roof proper entails a very hard boulder problem with two poor knifeblades for pro. The climbing out the roof looked gut-wrenching, not to mention that rope drag gets horrible when you pull onto the face; I think that [Dave] used two ropes and unclipped from one at the lip of the roof. --Jeremiah Johnson


Location 

Starts in the middle corner of the left roof or about 15 feet to the right of The Argonaut.



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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 18, 2009

It's probably best not to nail this route, as it has gone free.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 19, 2009

That's incredible, when did it go? Pictures? Did you get to see it go down, all the aid routes are slowly drying up :-( But it's great to see them have new life breathed into them. I remember the gear being, umm, aid like. Was any new fixed gear added? The moves into and traversing out of the roof must have been amazing! Isn't that anchor in a weird spot.

By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Feb 28, 2010

I don't think Dave added any gear; I belayed him a few times when he was working this and I tried the the first part of the route on toprope a few times, and the corner up into the roof is sporty to say the least. There was a fixed nut halfway up the corner, which feels like insecure 5.10, and then the sequence getting into the roof proper entails a very hard boulder problem with two poor knifeblades for pro. The climbing out the roof looked gut-wrenching, not to mention that rope drag gets horrible when you pull onto the face; I think that he used two ropes and unclipped from one at the lip of the roof.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 28, 2010

Hey Jeremy and nhclimber. I have integrated the two (free and aid) descriptions into the route posting. What do you think?

By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Mar 1, 2010

Looks good to me; maybe it'll motivate someone to go out and try that roof and they can give a first-hand description of that section. It looked just brutally hard.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 1, 2010

I'm with Jeremy, I'd love to hear the first hand account.

I know the KB placements that you mentioned Jeremy, I cannot imagine free climbing above these, they shifted as I reached up to the roof.

So whats left at sundown, the two roof cracks to the left of toothless grin (a3, a4), razor crack (c1) (this will go), I know there is an umcompleted line that traverses the left hand margine of the right roof (a4)

Band M has some unsent winners as well, I know that some have seen TR attempts. What's next!