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 ADVANCED
Sunday Slabs
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Center Crack T 
Directissima S 
Sevy T 

Sevy 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 29, 2006

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Description 

Follow the leftmost line of bolts to the dihedral, then climb the dihedral until you run out of rope. Set a belay in the alcove. Continue right, then up to the summit and descent trail.

Protection 

Draws, set of cams, set of nuts


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By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

You can place a nut and a cam (upward facing crack, though, for the cam) down left of your feet between bolts 1 and 2 - without you're looking at groundfall getting to the second bolt (poorly bolted as is the first on Directissima, IMO - not the runout, but bad clipping stances). Exciting lead. Corner (takes 0.3-1 BDs) was a welcome cruise after the slab.

Two bolt belay/rappel anchor where the upper corner meets the headwall (as indicated in the Slater guidebook) - one bolt with two rings, the other a single small quicklink.