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Severity Buttress
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Fata Morgana T 
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Severity Disparity Direct S 
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Severity Disparity 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P1: James Garrett with Patrick Maloney, November 1993
Season: winter,spring or fall
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: tenesmus on Feb 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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another marker for where you're headed. I liked t...


This is a two pitch line with fun traversing on bolts and a nice finger crack with lots of edges and boulder problems. The second pitch is all bolts with mellow 5.11 climbing - assuming you spot the right holds. It is easy to lead pitch 2 then lower off and let the other climber lead it, cleaning as they lower.


There is an obvious finger crack up the middle of this face that leads towards the left side of an oblong roof. This route starts with bolts about 30 feet right of the two bolts below this crack. (It looks like someone added a direct start) If you stand on the huge pedestal out from the base of the route you can see the bolts of Severity Disparity traversing in towards the crack from the left.


Small nuts and a dozen draws with some long runners for the traverses. It is often very easy to back clean the bolt below you. A 70m rope gets you back to the ground.

Photos of Severity Disparity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: grk getting started on p2
grk getting started on p2
Rock Climbing Photo: bsmoot starting out - this is a reference for the ...
bsmoot starting out - this is a reference for the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 start
P1 start

Comments on Severity Disparity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick Maloney
Oct 20, 2009

This was the first route to be bolted at Ibex,and what a fine line it is.
By bsmoot
May 11, 2010

Super quality...finger cracks, continuous face climbing, great rock, cool belay ledge, exposure...this route has it all!
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Jan 26, 2015

Nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot needed on the first pitch.

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