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Seventh Serpent 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 905
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 29, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Pic of P2 (5.12). You can also see the anchor of P...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


There may not be a lot of routes nearby but the Seventh Serpent is one of the classics of Long Canyon and worth the hike for one pitch. The route starts in a right facing corner with a short section of offwidth followed by hands and thin hands. About 25' up the corner ends and the crack wanders up the wall trending left through a few large pods. The climbing is varied with numerous rests, face holds and some short sections of splitter crack. Be cautious when getting to the anchor, some of the rock is soft and loose but not hard to climb around.

There is also a second pitch that was added later and supposedly clocks in somewhere in the 5.12 range. Looked like thin hands to fingers and it goes through a couple small roofs. Probably about 60' to 70' long with rap hangers for an anchor. Will update this information next time I go up to try it.

This route faces south but there is a large corner to its left so it gets some afternoon shade.


Park on the right at a tight left hand switchback just before the Maverick Buttress. There is a faint trail leading up the right side of the wash that will get you through some cliff bands. Once on top head way left and just keep an eye out for the obvious crack.


(6).75 & #1, (4)#2, (1)#3 & #4(old 4 is better) Camalots. Anchor has webbing but it should be replaced with some chain. I'll change it out next time I go up there unless someone else does it first.

Photos of Seventh Serpent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The tower. The line starts in the right facing cor...
The tower. The line starts in the right facing cor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling out of the perfect hands. Nothing bigger t...
BETA PHOTO: Pulling out of the perfect hands. Nothing bigger t...
Rock Climbing Photo: She's a beaut aint she?
She's a beaut aint she?

Comments on Seventh Serpent Add Comment
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By Ryan Kempf
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2013

A rarely climbed Long Canyon classic.
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Mar 18, 2016

An 80m is just barely long enough to link both pitches and come back down.

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