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climb up and over the overhang/roof in the chimney, and find your self on a large ledge (you can also bypass the overhang by working your way around to the far left then moving back above it). follow the notch and crack to the right of "rhythm roof". try not to go to far right, as it's an easy way to avoid the crux. on a nice weekend be prepared to stand in line to climb this gem.
A Std rack will work to lead this route. Gear or long slings to wrap the trees will work for your anchor.