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The Prow Area
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Seven Felonies S 

Seven Felonies 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Ben Schmitt
New Route: Yes
Season: Late spring, summer, and early fall
Page Views: 1,071
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Jun 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Seven felonies

Description 

This striking line takes the longest, steepest, part of the prow through three powerful and technical cruxes, with the upper steep section beeing incredible climbing.

First start out by pre-clipping the first bolt, then launch into a steep, reachy V7 boulder problem that starts on the left side of the low bulge and follows crimps, slopers and heelhooks to deposit you at the slab above. From here it's mossy alpine 5.9 climbing, up the the start of the over hanging prow. Catch your breath, becuase from here its on! As the angle kisck back to 35 degrees, the holds get smaller, and your forced to do a technical V5 off slopers and underclings to the jug out left. Rest here and fire through the final steep crux, which is a long hard V9 off slopers crimps, and strenuous body position to the sloping ledge out right. Keep it together for the final 12a section to the anchors.

I tenativly rate this 14a, becuase its harder than any of the 13d's or c's I've done recently, and more on par with the 14's. Hopefully more ascents will confirm this, and start a discussion about developing more hard routes in Alaska!

Location 

Start with a 3rd class scramble to the ledge below the small overhang. For the true start, do the boulder probem starting on the left side as opposed to using the crack out right.

Protection 

11 bolts to a coldshut anchor


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