A compact area comprising around 8 popular mid-grade routes.
Just right of the south face, jammed in the big corner on the right side of the face past a couple of large cutout holes.
Crack climbing is the highlight of this area with several classics established in 1972. Prima Fessura is the steep, good looking crack line on the left. In the middle is Seconda Fessura and to the right is the third crack, literally, Terza Fessura.
Climbing in the 4c to 6b grades and most of the routes look pretty good in what the guidebook refers to as "the least inviting sector of the Rocca." That said, the climbing is good, rock bomber, and the area has a good feel to it. Plus, the foliage coming out of the cracks is purty.
A smattering of interesting old pins and bolts in several of the two pitch route. Some supplemental protection may be prudent at this sector. A small selection of cams and nuts would suffice.
Great views of the surrounding countryside all the way out to the Med.
From the bridge across the creek from the car park, take the trail on the left up and stay on the main trail, which comes up on the right side of the sector. Traverse left on the trail at the base to get to the routes.
Alternately, one could follow the red-marked trail from the parking lot which initially traverses to the west (left) of the main face then up. Stay to the right at the big split below the south face.
Literally, the third crack.Kinda harder than it looks. Steep start into crack, with a few great face holds.Steep, juggy with a lower crack leading to a steep upper face with large holes for hold.Climb the first pitch to the very large ledge/terrace. Finish up on the second pitch to the right of the cave (and right of the route Ibis)....[more]Browse More Classics in International