Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hammer Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gemini Cracks 
Sea of Holes 
Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun 
Smoke Screen 
Squeaks of Gold 
Wings and Stings 

Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Craford an Karl Mc Conachie, 1972.
Page Views: 707
Submitted By: Blitzo on Dec 16, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
"Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun" is a s...

Description 

This climbs the smooth slab, a ways left of "Gemini Cracks", for three pitches. Start left of a black streak near the center of the slab, from a group of trees. Climb a 5.11 pitch past bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 5.10b pitch leads to a 2-bolt anchor. The last pitch is 5.8. Rappel the route.


Protection 

Draws.



Photos of Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
A live version of the song was done on "Ummagumma", Pink Floyd's third album, released 10-25-69. <br />Syd Barrett had lost his mind and had to leave the band. <br />He was replaced by David Gilmore, who first appeared on this album.
A live version of the song was done on "Ummagumma"...
Comments on Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Branden916
Jan 9, 2012

I only climbed the first (5.11R) pitch and it was very good. The climbing requires you to pull solid slab moves pretty far out from your bolts, better be solid..