Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun 5.11 R
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Paul Craford an Karl Mc Conachie, 1972. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Dec 16, 2006 |
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"Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun" is a s...
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Description This climbs the smooth slab, a ways left of "Gemini Cracks", for three pitches. Start left of a black streak near the center of the slab, from a group of trees. Climb a 5.11 pitch past bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 5.10b pitch leads to a 2-bolt anchor. The last pitch is 5.8. Rappel the route.
Protection Draws.
A live version of the song was done on "Ummagumma"...
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| Comments on Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun |
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By Branden916 Jan 9, 2012
| I only climbed the first (5.11R) pitch and it was very good. The climbing requires you to pull solid slab moves pretty far out from your bolts, better be solid.. |
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