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Gemini Cracks 
Sea of Holes 
Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun 
Squeaks of Gold 
Wings and Stings 

Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun 

5.11 R

   
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Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
FA: Paul Craford an Karl Mc Conachie, 1972.
Submitted By: Blitzo on Dec 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This climbs the smooth slab, a ways left of "Gemini Cracks", for three pitches. Start left of a black streak near the center of the slab, from a group of trees. Climb a 5.11 pitch past bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 5.10b pitch leads to a 2-bolt anchor. The last pitch is 5.8. Rappel the route.


Protection 

Draws.



Photos of Set The Controls for the Heart of the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
A live version of the song was done on "Ummagumma", Pink Floyd's third album, released 10-25-69. <br />Syd Barrett had lost his mind and had to leave the band. <br />He was replaced by David Gilmore, who first appeared on this album.

A live version of the song was done on "Ummagumma"...


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By Branden916
Jan 9, 2012

I only climbed the first (5.11R) pitch and it was very good. The climbing requires you to pull solid slab moves pretty far out from your bolts, better be solid..