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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 10, 2012
|More info on how to find this area and where each route is would be much appreciated.|
By Stone Nude
Jul 22, 2012
Classic descriptions. So much effort put forth. Can't wait to not bother wandering around looking for this well-documented area.
Aug 29, 2012
|I have been asked to remove this info from MP.|
By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 24, 2012
How do you get to Sesame Street?
Hmmm...Find your way to Mary Jane Falls trailhead parking. Google maps is not much help here. Follow the 157 past the Charleston Fire Station and go straight on Echo Road where the 157 turns left to go up the hill to the old Charleston Hotel.
Follow Echo Road and the signs to the Mary Jane parking lot trail head. Look south and you will see the 1200 ft.grey and golden Universal Wall. Sesame Street, a dark grey limestone slab, is tucked in on the lower right hand side.
Cross the wood fence and go south across the meadow. There is a chopped off at 4' small pine tree for a good initial marker. Cross in the dry wash. Behind it, still south, is a steep gully. See photo of trail start on this page. Ascend the gully about 60 meters and break right towards a old large stump. Before the stump the climber's trail begins switch-backing up the hill. There aren't many cairns now but the trail is pretty clear. It generally follows linked game trails up the rounded buttress. Halfway up there will be a short limestone cliff on your left. Follow the trail to the top of buttress and a very short descent into the hanging "meadow". Go through the copse of bent over Aspen trees and climb the slope to the wall. I'm gonna guess it's 3/4 mile. Average time up with a load is 35 to 45 minutes. Not anywhere as strenuous as getting to Crimson Chrysalis. Not as consistently steep as going to the Hood. Sesame Street shades in the afternoon. As of April 29th around 1:30 PM. Climb slightly harder or much harder stuff in the shade while you wait for the sun to pass over.
Alternately you can ascend the main drainage gully of the Universal Wall. Simply cross the meadow going slightly west to find the start of the trail. It is also a good trail and shorter than the first one but with more rocks and downed logs to cross over. Takes you into the bottom of the hanging meadow.
A couple caveats: Don't go into that area when snow is on the rim of the Universal Wall. You will be exposing yourself to rockfall from the rim. Don't go after a couple days of heavy rain for the same reason. Believe me a helmet won't help much in that situation.
2012 we started climbing at Sesame Street in early May. 2013 we started April 15th right after the temps on Charleston were no longer below 32° at night. When you can first go varies from year to year of course. Season ends sometime in late September generally.
There are many other routes at the Universal Wall and some are in active development. Please respect any fluids cache you may find. Any tidbits of gear: Leave them where you found them. I hate to be a jerk but understand these routes were created as a service to the climbing community and in no way represent "test pieces". Merely a cool place to climb very moderate routes with friends and family during the heat of summer. This information can come down quicker than it went up. The rest you know: Don't leave trash around. Respect the plant life(some is on the "threatened list") and animal life.
Right of the Hydra are 2 easy sport climbs: left to right... "Middle Aged" 5.7 and "Senior Citizen" 5.6. "Senior Citizen" is well protected and good first lead material. Left of the Hydra is a hard top rope, then "Absolutely Foolproof" 5.9+ and "Point of Inflection" 5.10b/c. Left of "Point of Inflection" are two more top rope climbs in the hard 5.10+ range. Access them from the ledge system at the top of the first pitch of the Hydra. In this area is Stinging Nettle. You can use " Sting Stop" to treat it; wear socks and over the knee climbing pants when hiking through it. Consult either "Islands in the Sky" or "Las Vegas Limestone" guidebooks if you can't find the Hydra.