Sesame Street 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Glen Cilley 1994 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 10, 2007 |
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Jared midway up Sesame Street
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Description A really cool climb that didn't see much traffic until it was fully bolted, and it still doesn't. A long route with a few cruxes that test you in different ways it will keep you on your toes. Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 15 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+). Climb the cracks (used to be protected with gear) to a steep face with a few hard moves that get you to a ledge rest. Continue up over another steep part with a cool mantel move. The final section surprised and scared me the first time I did it, 'cause I was in Rumney mode and all of the sudden I was looking at thin awkward moves on to a slab with few actual holds. Once I got in to Whitehorse mode, I was cool and did the few moves to the chains. you can make the final slab easier by stepping to the left then back right to clip your last bolt. If the crowds are swarming around the other 10s in the area this route is typically still lonely, so give it some loving when you get the chance.
Location Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 15 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+).
Protection 8 bolts to chains. 60M rope needed to lower.
Jared stepping up
| Jared on the fun upper slabby section
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| Comments on Sesame Street |
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By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 15, 2007
| Worthy of more ascents. Airy and long for a sport route. A 70m rope is nice if belaying from the ground, though a 60 will just get you down if the belayer scramble up a couple moves. Knot the rope! If you approach the last bolt from the left, you will find the going much easier. |
By Tristan Perry Oct 18, 2008
| I did this route not long ago...was thinking I had never done it before. Only when I lowered off and pulled the rope did I realize that I had climbed it four years before. I absolutely loved it both times; it's long and full-value - runout on easy ground and adventurous the whole way! It's got to be my favorite 10c at Rumney. |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Mar 20, 2009
| This route is the definition of classy, multiple cruxes, run outs, and a beautiful view, what could be better :) |
By twellman Mar 1, 2010
| This route is quite long and fun. However, I would say many of the words used to describe it here could be used even more appropriately to describe Millennium Falcon... multiple cruxes, adventurous, beautiful view, best 10c at Rumney. Both great climbs! |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Jul 25, 2010
| With looming rain clouds, we arrived to a packed A&D this morning. Sure enough... lines on every route but this and toxic gumbo. This route was GREAT! |
By S. Neoh Aug 14, 2011 rating: 5.10c
| For me the first time on this route since 1994! Nice route. Low crux felt harder today than I remembered while upper slab crux felt easier because I went left and then back right. Nice long route if one starts from the trail with a 70m but rope drag is burly! 2.5 stars. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA May 28, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| Finally got on this one. I wasn't sure as ".10c" is still intimidating to me, but I was glad I did. It felt, to me, a bit soft for a .10c, but I am a gym climber with strong hands and bad footwork, so maybe it's just me. Edit to add: This route is awesome! Multiple, good, no-hands rests, yet the route still seems to flow and is not broken up by these rests. Straightforward fun! A must for any gym rat wanting a good 10c to try! |
By S. Neoh May 28, 2012 rating: 5.10c
| Nice work, Matt. It is time to clean up on No Money Down, Romancing The Stone, Clusterphobia, and Waimea. I finished my day yesterday on Idiot's Deluxe (next to ladder for Holderness Arete). The last half of the climb is very good. I think you will find it challenging and enjoyable. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Jun 1, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| So... I recall seeing a second pitch to this, I think. Does this second pitch go to the top? And is it fully bolted? I would love to climb to the top of main cliff , and would like it even more if I could walk off instead of repel down. |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Jun 1, 2012
| Matt, you were probably looking at the 2nd/3rd pitch of The Big Easy. Even more to your right is Bourbon Street, which has a definite crux, followed by a relatively long low angle walk to anchors. From either of those two pitches the White Buttress can be seen above, however, it's currently an unbolted trad pitch. A walk off from the top would be adventurous (by normal Rumney standards) and might lead you over towards the top of Orange Crush or back around the FAR left side of Venus. Much easier to make a few single rope rappels to the base of A&D. Be careful not to throw your rope onto the line of people climbing the 1st pitch of The Big Easy! :D |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Jun 1, 2012 rating: 5.10b
| Thanks Jeff! |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 1, 2012
| The shortest walk down from the top of the white buttress would probably be to head back to the trail and head left. Just after where it crosses the top of the Venus stream, carefully scramble down the exposed western edge of the Venus wall (it is a good idea to have come up it first, so you know what you are getting into) |
By Kevin D. From: Palo Alto, CA Jun 11, 2012
| An excellent route with, I think, more substance than other 10s I've done on this part of the cliff. I'm surprised that it still sees as little attention as it does; ours was the only ascent on a very crowded day. Give it a try--you won't be disappointed! |
By erockbos From: Anywhere NH Nov 19, 2012
| KNOT YOUR ROPE! I'd have fallen a few feet without it today. That said, great climb. Go straight up second crux, cause that's why it's a great climb. A stiff move though. |
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