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Serrator Crack 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan the Brit
Page Views: 7,705
Submitted By: Wade Griffith on Feb 27, 2006
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Further progress up the Serrator

Description 

This route is found just to the left of Layaway Plan and cannot be mistaken since the name says it all. The first 20 feet is the meat of the climb, just insert your leg and start stackin. The rest of the climb is only about 5.8 but you need to walk the #5 for a bit and beware of the serrating edge.


Protection 

Camalots-(2) #4's, (2) #4.5"s, (1) #5. I used one of the #4's at the beginning and found a crappy placement for the other near the top. It might be better to leave a #4 and take another #5, except that you have to lug the boat anchor then.



Photos of Serrator Crack Slideshow Add Photo
More likely to fall in it as opposed to out of it.
More likely to fall in it as opposed to out of it.
The Serrator: scary maneater, bring the big stuff
The Serrator: scary maneater, bring the big stuff
Climber/Photographer Andrew Burr is as deft with the big gear as he is with a lens. Enjoying the wide open vistas of IC during a rare break in the work... IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW
Climber/Photographer Andrew Burr is as deft with t...
A cameraman HATES to be caught without a camera... Photographer Andrew Burr with a comment on what it's like to be on the wrong side of the lens. (IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW
A cameraman HATES to be caught without a camera......
Ryan on Serrator Crack.
Ryan on Serrator Crack.
Me. Turns out #6's are heavy....who knew.
Me. Turns out #6's are heavy....who knew.
Alf hauling a Valley Giant up the Serrator
Alf hauling a Valley Giant up the Serrator
Starting up the Serrator
Starting up the Serrator
Knee jam! <br />I had way more cams than I needed..
Knee jam!
I had way more cams than I needed..
Photographer Andrew Burr, caught on the other side of the lens for a change. The man can climb as well as he shoots! IC/Way Rambo Wall/The Serrator 5.11OW
Photographer Andrew Burr, caught on the other side...
Ryan climbing without a valley giant.
Ryan climbing without a valley giant.
Serrator crack
BETA PHOTO: Serrator crack
Comments on Serrator Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 23, 2007

I had one #6 wild country, which i wakled from the start of the serrator for 20'. after that, the crack becomes too big for the last 15'-20' or so. it would be nice to have two #6 cams; its a little scary being 60' off the deck with basicaly one cam between you and a ground fall.

By Evan Stevens
Sep 10, 2007

Gotta give credit to Alan the Brit for putting this one up in 2002?

By Ol' Toby
From: CO
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves.

By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 14, 2009

Difficulty is to get over the constriction a the start, and the next meter where still the knee does not fit. Once it fits in, the thing is fun.

By D-Storm
Apr 1, 2012

A great primer for Big Guy. If running it out at the end, as seems to be the common practice, be ready for one more spot of fear before reaching the chains. The top of the flake is fractured, forming a big perched block that you have to pull on to finish. It's probably stable enough for some time to come, but terrifying to think about while monkeying around on the thin, hollow thing with no pro in sight below.

By Patrick O'Neil
From: Santa Clara, CA
Oct 29, 2013

I've never downgraded a route yet in the 3+ years I've been climbing, and generally think that it's douchey to do so. That being said, after doing OWs in the valley, it feels charitable to rate this thing any harder than .10-. Color me a douche.

By D-Storm
Apr 1, 2014

This was the first desert OW I led, Pat, so you may have a valid point on the 5.10 grade. Perhaps mid-5.10 is more fair? I'd have to revisit the route to say more confidently. Now that I think of it, the short crux on this one is probably no harder than Yosemite's "Generator Crack" (10c).