||Ice, 1 pitch, 50'
|Consensus: ||WI5 [details]|
|Page Views: ||159|
|Submitted By: ||David Hertel on Feb 20, 2011|
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Looking up at the Serpent's Tooth!
When I found it, it's lowest tooth was hanging just out of reach. This monster fang was a hollowed out chimney and pouring like a downspout. The ice was slightly overhanging at the top and 100% vertical the rest of the way down. Despite it's drenching conditions, there is nothing about the Serpent's Tooth that indicates it would be a "walk up." Once it completely forms up, it will certainly become one of the "Classic" ice routes of the area. This 40' of frozen bliss forms up pretty good with a large curtain forming up to it's right. It stays pretty chandeliered and the center is hollow, but it is a good climb. Screws don't seem to take on this route
You can see it from the road. Directly across from the front door of the chocolate factory up the hill. The approach is the worst. You literally have to fight the underbrush to gain access to the ice flow. The term, bush whacking, is by far an understatement.
To give you an idea, It's mabey 300 yards up the hill and it took me just over an hour to get there. A machete would be useful for the approach.
Free hanging to pillar. Positive screws screw placements are hard to find. Also possible to set up a top rope.