Serpent's Tooth  WI5

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Type:  Ice, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  WI5 [details] FA:  Season:  winter Submitted By:  David Hertel on Feb 20, 2011 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking up at the Serpent's Tooth!

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Description 

When I found it, it's lowest tooth was hanging just out of reach. This monster fang was a hollowed out chimney and pouring like a downspout. The ice was slightly overhanging at the top and 100% vertical the rest of the way down. Despite it's drenching conditions, there is nothing about the Serpent's Tooth that indicates it would be a "walk up." Once it completely forms up, it will certainly become one of the "Classic" ice routes of the area. This 50' of frozen bliss may be the most menacing and astonishing ice formation in Southeast Alaska.

Location 

You can see it from the road. Directly across from the front door of the chocolate factory up the hill. The approach is the worst. You literally have to fight the underbrush to gain access to the ice flow. The term, bush whacking, is by far an understatement.
To give you an idea, It's mabey 300 yards up the hill and it took me just over an hour to get there. A machete would be useful for the approach.

Protection 

Free hanging, all lengths of screws will go. Also possible to set up a top rope.

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The Serpent's Tooth