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Serpentine (Sun-Rot Dihedral) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 384
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 2, 2006

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Serpentine (Sun-Rot) is on the left. The crux star...

Description 

This crack system is located about 100 yds west of the "Hermits Cave" on a shallow black dihedral which leads up to the left end of a large grassy ledge.

Thrash your way through desert thorns to get to the bouldery start. This boulder problem is the most difficult climbing of the route, and has an awkward fall-zone, even if you have a crash-pad. Above the start continue up the shallow black dihedral (~5.9). The rock quality gets worse the higher you climb. The crack peters out at an old (and untrustworthy in my opinion) 1/4" bolt. You can set up a belay here with Trad gear. Beware though, the natural belay stance is on top of a large and possibly unstable rock protrusion. The grassy ledge to the right does not offer many options for setting up a good anchor.

The second pitch traverses over to the grassy ledge and up a blackened drainage(~5.9). Surprisingly solid protection is found in the crack up this drainage, but there is also some very rotten rock.

Overall this route is a fun excursion on a beautiful wall. The suspect rock quality is offset with good protection and interesting climbing.

Protection 

The bouldery start can be protected with small wires, although a groundfall may still occur. The rest protects fairly well. Several old pin-scars make good placements for small cams and wires.

No fixed anchor is found at the top of the climb. To descend, scramble west towards a large chimney that splits Cueva. The chimney can be down-climbed or rappelled. The last steep 15m section can be rappelled off a piton.


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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Clinton, TN
Mar 15, 2009

A second bolt was added at the top of the first pitch next to the old 1/4", making it a descent rappel point.
By Karl Kiser
Sep 18, 2010

This is probably Serpentine. There is a crack to the right (protects with gear) called Gargoyle (can rap off an anchor on a ledge).