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> Liberty Bell
Serpentine Crack
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 21 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 6,491 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Mark Overdevest on Aug 27, 2009 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Great route that didn't seem to see much traffic. First pitch a little mossy but the rest we thought were stellar.
Pitch 1 - slab moves heading left into a corner with short 5.8 move over a bulge. Belay above some moss in a corner/gully below obvious steep corner w/ crack. 5.8
Pitch 2 - Head up easy handcrack to base of the business. We bumped a #3 to eye level on the start. Seemed to work well for us. Great gear, a bit wide and (for us) pretty physical. 5.11.
Pitch 3 - Awesome left angling hand crack. Note old wedged 2x4..?. Awesome exit move pulling a small roof/bulge with great gear. Continue above, building anchor before tunnel. 5.10
Pitch 4 - head up and right through tunnel (probably recommended) or left and over (harder w less pro). Continue on beautiful exposed sunny arete/spur. 5.7
Simul/scramble to summit.
Pitch 1 - slab moves heading left into a corner with short 5.8 move over a bulge. Belay above some moss in a corner/gully below obvious steep corner w/ crack. 5.8
Pitch 2 - Head up easy handcrack to base of the business. We bumped a #3 to eye level on the start. Seemed to work well for us. Great gear, a bit wide and (for us) pretty physical. 5.11.
Pitch 3 - Awesome left angling hand crack. Note old wedged 2x4..?. Awesome exit move pulling a small roof/bulge with great gear. Continue above, building anchor before tunnel. 5.10
Pitch 4 - head up and right through tunnel (probably recommended) or left and over (harder w less pro). Continue on beautiful exposed sunny arete/spur. 5.7
Simul/scramble to summit.
Location
Liberty Bell West Face. Approach as for Beckey route but stay left at fork in gully. You can stash packs here and pick em up on descent.
Route starts up and left so scramble up 4th class ledges to start at slung small pine above slabs. Look for prominent roofs as per topo left of the crack.
Descend as for all other routes from summit (Beckey Route and 2 raps - watch for rope catching on blocks below second station)
Route starts up and left so scramble up 4th class ledges to start at slung small pine above slabs. Look for prominent roofs as per topo left of the crack.
Descend as for all other routes from summit (Beckey Route and 2 raps - watch for rope catching on blocks below second station)
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