Serpent Face 5.10c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Bruce Holthouse |
| Submitted By: | Randy on Nov 14, 2007 |
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Serpent Face action.
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
A new online Tres Piedras Route Guide from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note. From the guide:
Access Notes: Tres Piedras climbers should sign the waiver found on this page because the popular South Rock is mostly on private land, as is some of the access to the area. The landowner, requests a waiver, NO fires, no chalk and "please close any gates".
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
On August 19, 2009 the landowner stated: "Yes I still own the property, and yes I'd still like to have waivers on hand - even or perhaps especially from your organization. Only once in awhile do I have problems with climbers, mostly not picking up after themselves. My biggest gripe is that despite repeated requests, the climbers don't remove protection (edit: colored webbing, shiny hardware) from the climbing routes, which is both lazy and unattractive. Your organization could do me a big favor by doing a group climb and removing the crap that others have left on the various routes so that it is both a pristine part of the landscape, and so that each climber must figure out his own route without relying on the handiwork of others."
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Begin about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack. Head up and then left to a bolt (stopper protects). Thin face up and left (crux) leads to a horizontal. From here you wander right and up and left and up and right passing more horizontals (thin gear necessary in these) and three more bolts. A little runnout getting to the last (4th) bolt (but not too hard). From the last bolt, head right and then up to reach a two bolt anchor/rap (100++ feet) which is shared with Serpentine Crack.
Location This face climb wanders up the section of rock about 20 feet left of Serpentine Crack and about 20 feet right of Better Red Than Dead.
Protection Four bolts, stoppers and thin cams to 1 inch. Slings and draws.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 2, 2008
rating: 5.10c
| Excellent climb- arguably the best 5.10 at TP.
It's too bad the guidebook calls this climb 'R' - it probably keeps people off of this very enjoyable route who otherwise would really have a blast. It is no more runout than the rest of the Mosaic Rock routes (of those 5.10 or easier).
Near the top, the guidebook's line suggests you angle right on big holds past a tiny pine tree (and skip the 4th bolt which is to the left). I like going that way.
1 60m rope reaches on rappel, doesn't quite just barely reach if lowering through the gear. |
By Mike Howard
Administrator
May 27, 2008
| FA: Bruce Holthouse
I am generally scared off the R's at TP but I will say this route is all there, for a full value route finding/creative pro classic. You can get a so-so piece below the first bolt in the wet horizontal which might stay put if you don't fall on it. Don't cheat yourself with the toprope. |
By Stuart Turner
Jan 26, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| I felt the gear was pretty good on this route. Tri-cams and brassies should sow it up. Freaken great climb. Needs a face lift (three years ago). |
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10c
| Re: "Needs a facelift (three years ago)."
All the bolts looked good on this climb today, and seemed ok when I led it last year. It's fine now, not sure when it was upgraded or by whom (thanks by the way). Edit: heard rumors Taos climbers upgraded these bolts a while ago. Thanks guys. |
By Bowe Ellis
From: Taos, NM
Apr 19, 2012
rating: 5.10d PG13
| A couple questions about this route...
1. Why is the first bolt in such a tricky stance, and already above the crux moves? I found it a strange placement. Having it lower would still protect falls onto the lower angle slab below.
2. There is a lone bolt out up and left of the first horizontal crack. It's possible to link this up (~5.10a/b) but doesn't follow the natural line up & right. Is this bolt on another route or is it meant to be a new version of Serpent?
BTW, excellent climb. One of the 5 best at TP, IMHO. |
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| I have to second Bowe's question. Both guidebooks show the second bolt directly above the first one, which is clearly not the case. To reach this bolt you probably would NOT traverse right in the horizontal below, but this seems a bit contrived since it is clearly easier to go right at this point.
I also didn't feel that the protection was worse that other comparable TP routes (But then again I might not have been 'on route', skipping the second bolt and the last, while doing the direct finish that George mentioned). |
By Drew Dickey
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.10c PG13
| I also will have to agree with Bowe and Matthias, the bolt out left is a little contrived. I found it fun and protectable to go straight up through the horizontals. Run out through easy climbing at the top. One of my favorites at TP! |
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