Shady, with a short approach and lots of moderate routes.
The majority of the routes are on north-north-west and north-west facing rock and thus are in the shade until mid-afternoon during the warmer months. However, even in the afternoon many of the routes are shaded by trees and so are climbable without discomfort.
Note that at the time of this writing the routes here are all less than a year old. Until twenty years of traffic have cleaned them up they won't be quite like Division Wall. There is still a bit of grit and the odd loose rock. The upside is that the routes aren't polished, slick and over-chalked.
Park near the outlet of the Little Mill Campground (either inside the campground near Division or just past the exit bridge on the right side of the road).
Find the paved trail that leads east from the campground area (blocked with a couple of anti-vehicle pillars). Follow this trail for a few hundred feet until you come to a clearing on the right side that is bisected by a line of three-foot boulders.
Through the clearing on the far side of the boulders walk over a small, sandy area and follow a trail up the drainage until you come to a large, rough stump on the right side (there is a smaller stump prior to the larger one). Immediately past the stump turn right and walk twenty or thirty feet. You'll see in front of you a gray limestone wall. This is Haven, the left-most collection of routes at Serenity.
A truly fun jug haul whose start climbs like the 5.9 gym route on the lead wall. You know: the one that's super steep with huge jugs that you think doesn't exist outside.Start at the base of a right-facing corner (same start as for Shindig) and head up and then left on big holds. At the second bolt, head farther left using big moves on bigger holds with dicey feet. Make the transition to the face and enjoy the big pockets for a couple of bolts until a ledge.After the ledge climb next to...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Finally, a shady summer cliff with a bunch of moderate routes. Should not take too long to clean up as it will probably become one of the most popular cliffs in the canyon. I would strongly suggest the belayer wear a helmet for the next year or two.
Kudos to Perin and Darren for all the hard work and expense.
Great area!! I can't believe how much good climbing these guys pulled out of a 5 minute approach from the car. Definitely take helmets; you'll be sure to pull several holds off each route you get on. Also consider rapping off some of the taller routes - the anchors are above ledges or bulges that make getting lowered hard on your rope.
Fun routes! The routes need some clean-up for sure. The grades were not consistent with other AF areas in my opinion. I thought over-all the grades were higher than they should have been. The 11's were closer to upper 10s and as the routes get cleaner and holds become more obvious I think the ratings will need to come down significantly. Thanks for all the work and effort putting them up. Very nice spot!