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Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

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Big Baldy 
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Rest Day:
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Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.5647, -118.7734 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: limpingcrab on May 17, 2013
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Angel Wings, a 3000 ft backcountry wall

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Area: Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI) is a land of giants. Near or within it's borders lie the largest trees on earth (Sequoias), the highest mountain in the contiguous United States (Mount Whitney), arguably the deepest river canyon in North America (Kings below Spanish Mountain), the tallest granite dome in the Sierra (Tehipite), the longest cave in California (Lilburn), and steepest river in the United States (Kaweah). Scattered throughout these superlatives are high quality climbing areas where you can enjoy the beauty of these parks in relative solitude.

To keep things organized, this area covers the climbing that is accessed from the west side of the parks. The highest peaks, Sierra crest and northern areas of King Canyon should be in the "High Sierra" area until a better system is in place.

Climbing: The climbing is excellent and a bit more spread out than it's neighbor to the north, Yosemite. Some rocks are virtually roadside with five minute approaches, while other formations will take at least one full day to get to and test the endurance of the strongest legs and lungs. The resulting experience is similar to what the original explorers of the area got to enjoy; solitude. The rocks are mostly composed of solid granite, with some marble and other forms scattered throughout the park. No matter your climbing style there is enough variety for you to find something to enjoy. Dozens of areas offer slab, steep face, big wall, cracks, alpine, and even a bit of sport climbing.

Many of the major formations were first climbed around the same time Yosemite was getting developed, and by some familiar names such as Robbins, Rowell and Beckey. Most of the modern routes were pioneered through the 80's and 90's by a handful of strong climbers including, but not limited to, Herb Laeger, Richard Leversee, Eddie Joe and David Hickey.

The only guide for the region, "Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia Kings Canyon," is long out of print and costs a pretty penny online. Many routes have been put up by park employees and a few other folks since the book was published in 1993, so some exploring will reveal many more developed routes than most people think. That being said, there are still miles of untouched rock for those willing to earn it.

If you're looking for somewhere to explore, get the wilderness experience, and enjoy some awesome climbing, this is the place to be!

PS: For some cool history, stories, topos and photos of this and surrounding areas visit southernsierraclimber.blogspot... and vertical20.com/

Also, a small online guide that continually gets updated can be found at sekiclimbing.com/

Weather and Roads 

SEKI is the same as most of the Sierra; hot dry summers and cold snowy winters. This means that some roads get closed in the winter, but there is climbing at at least one of the areas year-round.

Visit the SEKI website for updated road and weather conditions at
nps.gov/seki/index.htm

Getting There 

To access most areas in the Kings Canyon half of the park take Highway 180 out of Fresno. For the southern Sequoia areas the best approach is via highway 198 out of Visalia. A few backcountry spots around the Obelisk are accessed from trailheads near Wishon Reservoir. If you need more specific directions ask Google Maps for help.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

200 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',30],['3 Stars',77],['2 Stars',61],['1 Star',31],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',14],['5.8',23],['5.9',25],['5.10',43],['5.11',16],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',16],['V2-3',36],['V4-5',10],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP:
Moonage Daydream   WI4 M4-5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   The Watchtower
Mt. Harrington, North Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad   The Gorge of Despair
West Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 700'   The Obelisk
Saber Ridge traverse, south to north   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches   Tamarack Lake Area : Saber Ridge
South Face   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 8 pitches   Moro Rock (SEKI)
The Boardwalk Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 550'   Lower Tokopah Dome
Lunch Bucket Ledge   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Hospital Rock Area : Main Wall
Pennies On The Patio   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Moro Rock (SEKI)
Wall of Early Morning Fright   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Chimney Rocks : Chimney Spire
South Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches   Moro Rock (SEKI)
Jammies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 280'   Danland : Race Crack Area
The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   Castle Rocks : Castle Rock Spire
Welcome to Little Baldy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Little Baldy
Levity's End   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   Moro Rock (SEKI)
Kitty From Hell   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Chimney Rocks : Chimney Spire
Race Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   Danland : Race Crack Area
Welcome to Wallmart   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   Lower Tokopah Dome
Mango Lassi Lulz Machine   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 620'   Lower Tokopah Dome
Valkyrie   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 17 pitches, 2200'   Hamilton Lakes and Valhalla : Angel Wings
Modern Guilt   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 10 pitches, 1200'   Moro Rock (SEKI)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP

Featured Route For Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP
Rock Climbing Photo: Kinda crappy topo I sketched.

Tan in November 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Santa Cruz Dome
A beautiful, safe, moderate climb that has a little bit of everything on perfect rock (except a bit of P1).P1. Pick you way through some flaky rock to the right of the giant chimey towards a bush. Chimney up behind the bush and take a crack to the right to a giant ledge.P2. Climb through the broken cracks on the right side of the ledge up to a beautiful, easy double crack system the trends up and left. Before you reach the end, take a crack to the right when you see a small bush and out onto...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow at sunset near the Great Western Divide - ...
Rainbow at sunset near the Great Western Divide - ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zumwalt Meadow in Kings Canyon
Zumwalt Meadow in Kings Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: L to R= the Fin, Moro Rock, Hamilton Towers w/ Ham...
L to R= the Fin, Moro Rock, Hamilton Towers w/ Ham...
Rock Climbing Photo: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaweah_C...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaweah_C...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tokopah Valley with the Marble Fork Kaweah River
Tokopah Valley with the Marble Fork Kaweah River
Rock Climbing Photo: Southern Great Western Divide with Eagle Scout Pk ...
Southern Great Western Divide with Eagle Scout Pk ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Western Divide from Moro Rock
Great Western Divide from Moro Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Table Mountain
Table Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Sequoia Backcountry
Sequoia Backcountry
Rock Climbing Photo: the Whitney Crest as viewed from the Kaweah Peaks
the Whitney Crest as viewed from the Kaweah Peaks
Rock Climbing Photo: the Silliman Range and Silliman Point   supertopo....
the Silliman Range and Silliman Point supertopo....

Comments on Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP Add Comment
Show which comments
By kfox
Apr 29, 2014
Here is the link to any current rock climbing closures in the park(s)
nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/roc...
By Chad N in Central CA
From: Central California
Apr 23, 2016
Kaweah Traverse _ Big to Black

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