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Kloof Alcove
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Sequential 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt & Dan Hare, 1981
Page Views: 5,646
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Now that's how you place gear.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Locate the start of Kloof and boulder up the jugs to the ledge. Jam and layback straight up the groove to the second chalked-up jug rail.... Place bomber pro and launch off on the crux sequence and the best 3 feet of steep jamming in Eldo.... Weave out left and up to the anchor OR finger jam straight up the crack (better and a little harder). An excellent pitch, possibly the best (sans fixed) pitch of its grade in the canyon!


Protection 

Medium to small wired nuts, #1-#2 Friends (double 1+1.5 is nice). Sometimes there is a resident fixed nut (#5 stopper works well) at the crux.



Photos of Sequential Slideshow Add Photo
Strong Steve crushing the crux moves.
Strong Steve crushing the crux moves.
Ethan going for a redpoint attempt, which he later got!
Ethan going for a redpoint attempt, which he later...
Ben W. digging into the crux moves.  Note the beautiful stone, it's some of the best in the canyon.
Ben W. digging into the crux moves. Note the beau...
Sequential climbs the thin crack right of center in the photo. It shares the same start with Kloof which traverse left on the heavily chalked buckets above the center of the photo.
Sequential climbs the thin crack right of center i...
Ethan on the initial moves to get established up on the ledge before the route really starts.
Ethan on the initial moves to get established up o...
Lit up at night.
Lit up at night.
Comments on Sequential Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 22, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 9, 2004

One of the best single pitches in Eldo, if not the Boulder area. Excellent moves, consistently overhanging and great looking. It would be even better if you skipped the fixed nut and did the direct finish. With that combination, the route would warrant about 10 stars for quality.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Feb 4, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Super fun route that gets steeper the higher you climb. Great gear throughout. This is not your typical Eldo route and is probably a good first 12 for everyone.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Nov 25, 2008

I agree with the above posters, this is an awesome route! It's way overhung from beginning to end with only two rests, and even if you can make all the moves it's so sustained that it's really an endurance crux. Also, the direct finish staying in the crack to the very end is recommended and makes it a little harder than bailing left. Beware of sucker holds if going for the onsight... a few of the highly chalked holds are worthless and not necessarily part of the best sequence.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Nov 26, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I just think the moves are not too bad for a 12 in Eldo. As far as gear...well it is Eldo. It ain't no weenie roast up there. Safer than a lot of routes though I've been on.

By Bob Rotert
Jan 21, 2009

I think Rob is saying the moves are not "technically" hard. I would agree, the crux factors on this climb are power and the strength to endure. The FA was done with one fixed nut to protect the crux moves near the top and having to place this piece would make it quite a bit more difficult since the pump factor is mainly what you are fighting on this one.

I think difficulty perspectives are getting skewed here by some folks. This one is strenuous & powerful and you aren't going to be able to do it if you don't have the strength. If your burly, strong and light, this could feel easy,. I would say this one is pretty unique in its overhanging & strenuous character compared to many other Eldo 12's which tend to be more techy and not just brutally strenuous like this one.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 1, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. If your looking for a potential 12a trad route to onsight in Eldo this one is probably your best bet.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2009

Sandbaggers! Onsighting this in good style (placing all of your own gear) would be well proud and stout. Even if you used the fixed gear, it would be a very challenging onsight as it's hard to recover from any mistakes at this angle. How many people have actually onsighted this?

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Feb 1, 2009

I onsighted it last Summer, but clipped all the fixed gear there was. I seem to remember that there was a fixed nut about everywhere you would really want one. 2 maybe, and the rest is bomber gear.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Feb 1, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

You da man Hank! Right now there are 2 fixed nuts. Only 1 about a year ago when I climbed it.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 1, 2009

Well done but I'm afraid the onsight doesn't count if your name is Hank Caylor. It's an unfair advantage.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 2, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Hey, I didn't say it would be an easy onsight. It's just a lot more climber friendly than say the "Wisdom" or even a route like "Foxtrot".

By Bob Rotert
May 7, 2009

I totally agree! Unfair advantage if your name is "Hank Caylor". This would be a proud 12 send if you're a mortal.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 9, 2009

Steve Lucerelli wrote:
"I'd agree with Rob, this route is by far the easiest 5.12 that I've done in Eldo and the gear is pretty obvious for most of the pitch. "
Easier than Apple Strudel? I would have said that would be one of the easiest.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
May 10, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Steven means routes on gear not bolts. Big difference.

By WadeM
Jan 22, 2014

Currently there is no fixed gear.