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This striking route lies high on the blood wall and provides great views of the eagle wall, black orpheus, and solar slab. The rock is superb, position spectacular, and the climbing fun. Protection is plentiful but the pitches are long.
P1: 5.11a/b The route starts in a bomb bay Chimney. Climb the chimney and pull the lip of a small roof and follow the crack through the mixture of hands, fingers, offwidth and face moves to gain the easier OW/Squeeze. Continue up the widening chimney until about 20ft below the roof (where the crack snakes left). At this point exit the crack by moving out left (watch rope drag) onto a scooped dish until directly under where the crack above turns back vertical. Climb straight up to regain the crack on face holds to a stance. (5.10+) Belay in a corner at a small ledge on fixed nuts or finger size cams. The crux of this pitch has a height dependent element. (55m)
P2: 5.8+ Head up and left following the crack. Continue left at a pseudo junction in the crack with a right variation. When the crack runs out, traverse right on the lower angled face to a ledge with a large slung chock stone.
P3: 5.9 Traverse right again for 20m to gain a chimney that quickly becomes a handcrack. Continue up cracks to a ledge with another chockstone with slings at the top of the formation.(60m)
- No bolts, two fixed nuts used for rappel of first pitch
Hike past the blood wall in the gulley and take easier slabs cutting back (east) diagonally up to reach the upper tier. A large red north facing wall can be seen with a striking crack with a kink in it. This is Seppuku.
The route can be rapped off of webbing slung blocks with two 60m ropes or . . .continue up a right slanting finger crack on the white rock face (50ft). From there 3rd class up to the top of the formation. Walk right (west) staying close to the ridge and follow a cairned branch whitney style descent off the back of the formation.
Standard rack with doubles to #6 friend
2 x 60m ropes
Karsten climbs pitch 1 on first ascent
Pitch 1 roof
Andrew Gomoll pulling face moves a top of pitch 1
Andrew Gomoll leads up the primo second pitch choc...
unknown ninja on pitch 2
From: Las Vegas
Sep 27, 2007
Nice looking line.
Apr 19, 2011
Fun route - good rock. Both the first and last anchors were laying on their respective ledges - kind of amusing... Last party to climb this must've topped out...
|By Jon O'Brien|
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
approach was more involved than i thought it'd be, i should have worn approach shoes. also, there was a fixed line to gain the last part of the approach and the rope is a very thick static line. if i hit blood wall again i'll bring an ascender for the static line (which is attached to a nice new bolt)
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 15, 2012
Interesting about the fixed line to a bolt. Probably alot more activity going on up there. There is some nice chocolate rock up in that area.
Anchors on the ledges. . . . you guys are probably the second ascent. I haven't heard of anyone else doing this route.