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 ADVANCED
Fossil Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling 
Dirty Bones 
Fossil (Trad Route) 
Fossil Fuel 
Relic, The 
Separation of Chirp & Plate 

Separation of Chirp & Plate 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Gillet
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008
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Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Easy climbing through the chossy lower band to a large ledge. Clip the first bolt (recommended), which is often skipped due to rope drag. Climb through good holds to find the 2nd bolt which protects the crux moves. Clipping from the large rail below, that is best gripped on the right side. Just above the second bolt is the crux a balancy, crimpy move that can be bypassed using the ramp on the left. Continue to a big ledge where the route moves right onto the opposing face for a couple more bolts to another ledge for an easy access anchor. Good movement all the way up this line.


Location 

Between Fossil (Trad Route) and 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling, #3 on the topo.


Protection 

6 Bolts, and chain anchor


Bodycount 

This route snapped a Midland local's ankle one Sunday in 2006 when he blew the clip at the third bolt. Earned him a trip out hopping on one leg aided by two climbers at his sides.



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