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 ADVANCED
Westwind Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Check the Technique T 
Eastwind Crack T 
Empty Plate T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Flippin' the Bird T 
Grumpy Old Men T 
Last of The Summer Wine T,S 
Separation Anxiety T 
Sit and Spin T 
Textbook Variation T 
True Grit (Var.) T 
Warhorse T 
Unsorted Routes:

Separation Anxiety 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: D. Forgeng, S. Ohkawa, 24 April, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,317
Submitted By: mountainsense on Apr 29, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: and finally the crux beta?

Description 

Separation Anxiety ascends an improbable line of spectacular, in-cut diorite knobs through the center of the Perseverance Wall. The boldness of this ground-up, first ascent cannot be overplayed; having never drilled--ever, Dan, aka "Little," aka "Strong," continued upward, into the unknown, and the uncleaned... Execute big moves between spaced chickenheads, passing two bolts, careful to keep the separation anxiety at bay! Launch into the upper slab, using a few long runners to sling the diorite--hang a few of those big cams from having warmed up on Check the Technique to keep them from lifting! The climbing here eases up significantly but remains fun and engaging the entire way. Clip the third--and last--bolt, pass a shallow, bottoming horizontal near the top of the slab, then trend right--toward the shared sling anchor atop Check the Technique. Rap or lower--beware of rope drag across the slab!

Location 

Separation Anxiety starts on a narrow ledge, 20 feet to the left of the obvious flake-pillar of Check the Technique. There is a two-bolt rappel anchor--40 or so feet to the right of the start--that provides an escape into the gully below the ledge.

Protection 

The first two bolts protect the business, the third is located about 35 feet above, for good measure. In addition to draws, bring a few double-length runners--the skinny Dyneema ones work best--for the chickenhead pro, as they're the only thing keeping you from cratering.


Photos of Separation Anxiety Slideshow Add Photo
Shingo beta
BETA PHOTO: Shingo beta
yet more beta
BETA PHOTO: yet more beta
Peter Vintoniv onsights Separation Anxiety.  Photo, courtesy Andrew Burr Photography, 2010.
Peter Vintoniv onsights Separation Anxiety. Photo...

Comments on Separation Anxiety Add Comment
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By Daniel Forgeng
From: Salt lake City
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The grade is a suggestion in anticipation for easier, non-midget beta. I don't think it deserves an R rating. There are many chicken heads to sling between the bolts 2 and 3. Bring lots of dynema slings! A double length allowed me to lasso the chicken head above bolt 2.