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Nightmare Rock
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Sentry Box 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,133
Submitted By: David Trippett on Nov 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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'78 Ascent


The classic hard finger crack at Murrin.

Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.

Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There is serious ground fall potential in the first 5m of this variation.


Nightmare rock is at Murrin Park


singles to #2 Camalot,doubles of yellow and green aliens, stoppers.

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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Nov 27, 2007

I believe that this is the route shown on the cover of the Squamish Select guidebook. It looks spectacular, but I think I need to lead Crime of the Century cleanly first.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 28, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great route. For the crux, you either need to have small fingers or be tall. I only toproped the direct start, but it is very cool. Pro on it is mostly incipient blue and yellow TCU's, with one fixed piton for the crux.
By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Jul 29, 2009

I like a black alien at the crux.
By slim
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

outstanding route. the initial warmup section alone is great fun, but the climbing above is the cat's pajamas! great rock, perfect gear, you really feel like you are climbing something when you ascend this line. if you aren't smiling when you hit the chains then you probably need a labotomy!

one key piece of beta (given above) - make sure you do something to keep the rope out of the crack at the lip of the chimney. you will probably realize this pretty quickly though.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015

FA: Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, Oct. 1960. FFA: Eric Weinstein, 1976. Direct: Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1982
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