A short (15 foot) squeeze chimney leads to a large ledge. Continue up a narrow dihedral and a hand crack to another ledge. Follow face holds and a hand crack up to the chimney proper. Climb the chimney to a significant ledge. From here, climb right into a small chimney, then traverse up and left towards the break in an overhand. Climb up between the overhand and the cliff wall at it's smallest point to another ledge. Then climb up easy slabs to the top.
Walk along the ledge at the base of the sandstone buttress until it is possible to see a prominent chimney. If you are wondering if it is a chimney, you haven't seen it yet.
There is one bolt on the first ledge. Two bolt belay on the second ledge. Two bolts in the second chimney. Two bolt belay on the third ledge. One bolt in the third chimney. Two bolt belay on the fourth ledge. There is a two bolt belay at the top. This climb is bolted to death, and there are plenty of options for placing traditional protection. You could rapel this route with a 30m rope.
|By bob branscomb|
From: Lander, WY
Mar 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I did this climb a couple of days ago for the first time since around 1995. Geez, who put in all those fucking bolts? I suspect it was those NOLS weenies.
Anyway, this is a fun climb. The stem out of the cave thing on the second pitch is pretty cool. Take a #4 camalot and really sew it up.
|By burlap submariner|
Oct 7, 2011
bob, around 2004 tom hargis started to retro some of the old classics there and bolted new sport lines to the right of gunky. it was really odd as one weekend we were up there and there was no bolts and the next there were bolts all over the place.
|By matt j hartman|
From: lander, wy
Jun 7, 2013
this thing is littered with belay bolts, like 4 pitches in 200 feet. fun though.
|By Lane Tomme|
Sep 24, 2013
I don't think NOLS would bolt any sort of Trad climb. NOLS climbing courses are specifically for Trad climbing, building anchors and rappelling. So I would guess its a climber that wanted to make the climb very accessible to anyone.