Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
g. V3 - Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alley Oop 
Beyond the Fringe 
Bombs Away Dream Baby 
City Streets 
Commando Rave 
Country Roads 
Dry Heaves 
Faithful Journey 
Gory Thumb 
Middle Earth 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
On Any Monday 
Red's Ruin 
Talus of Powder 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct 
Wild Horses 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Willie Crowther, 1960, after placing the bolts on rappel.
Page Views: 2,225
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
At the third bolt.
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is one of the very few bolted routes in the Gunks and is a great warm-up for Never Never Land. The crux is a high-ball boulder problem with gear at your feet.

Start below 3 bolts, 15' left of Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. You can get great small gear in the second horizontal shelf. From here head up the bolt line, wandering left and right as needed, then up and right to the pine tree.


You'll need a light rack to supplement the 3 bolts.

Photos of Sente Slideshow Add Photo
Becky at the first bolt.
Becky at the first bolt.
Above the 2nd bolt on Sente.
Above the 2nd bolt on Sente.
At the anchors (tree).
At the anchors (tree).
Gail floating up Sente
Gail floating up Sente
Comments on Sente Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Jul 28, 2006

If you've done this route a few years ago the bolts were pretty mank. I hear the bolts were replaced recently; can anyone confirm?

By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2006


There are three shiny new bolts that protect this climb.

Sep 3, 2007

At my height (5'7", -2 ape index), there is a 9+ or 10 move *before* placing the first piece of gear - I can't reach the first horizontal with my feet on anything reasonable. This is why I'll never lead this route - that move is a committing highball for me. Other moves on this route seemed reachy as well, and the route is really .... just so-so. Just my $0.02.

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun route. Very un-Gunks like slab climbing. Protects reasonably with #2 Yellow and #3 Orange Metolius doubled up at the first horizontal. Three bolts and a piton above that then one or two larger cams in the easy blocky stuff just before the end.

By kenr
Oct 29, 2010

Agree with JSH: If less than 5ft 7inch / 170cm, unless have unusually long arms, would have to stand on really dicy crystals or something in order to reach hand up to the horizontal.
That comes before placing the first cam in horizontal, below the first bolt.
(Or else someone post the special beta for non-tall leaders.)

By S. Neoh
Oct 31, 2010

I am 5'6" tall with short arms. I led this climb on-sight in 1996 and remembered some balancy but not hard moves before the 1st piece of gear. Sorry, can't say I remember more. I thought the climb was pretty good. I was more nervous leading Pas de Deux!

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Awkward moves. Nothing special IMHO.

By cliffmama
Apr 26, 2012

Love this climb, great for those who like thin, balancy moves. Dicey first moves until you can get gear in - I'm 5'6" tall and I have to use the slopey ramp as a hold until I can reach the big horizontal. Then three bolts make the hardest section a well protected sport climb - it's very thin here but if you fell, you won't go far. Then the rest is easy trad. Tree has sling anchor on it, so easy to set up top rope from here to TR Sente, and Thin Slabs with a directional.