Sensuous Mortician 

An interesting 5.7-ish second pitch exists, starting up and left from the belay. Climb steep, featured rock past small overlaps to a white slab with old bolt, then continue to the summit of the formation. Descend by mixed downclimbing and a tree rappel in the exposed gully behind the left side of the formation (nontrivial).

I believe swain gives this an R rating, This is not the case. There is plenty of gear, like alot of RR route's on varnished faces the gear doesn't become apparent until you are almost on top of it.Very fun route!

Loved this climb! I felt there were some tricky pro placements(pockets and some funky, chossy horizontal cracks),at the start of the sections of varnished, somewhat blank face climbing. The entire Necromancer wall was shaded in the morning ,up until about noon when the sun started to show itself at the top of the route and at the base.

SPECTACULAR!!!!

this is probably my favorite pitch of 5.7 at red rocks.

"Favorite 5.7 pitch"?? How can that be, isn't it 5.9?

the guidebook says 5.9, but low angled slab + tons of jugs does not = 5.9. if you compared this to similar pitches at old, established, baseline areas the pitch would probably get 5.7.

just trying to inject some reality into the 'consensus' driven (ie inflated) grading that seems so prevalent these days.

pretty dang good, not quite "classic".

It's 5.9 Slim. I'd even say it's a heady one at that. I really enjoy this route or that reason.

I followed this route last weekend and IMHO it deserves at least a PG13 rating. Definitely a great route, but not for beginning 5.9 leaders.

Replaced the anchor on this one a while ago and forgot to mention it. This route is pretty damn great and is probably PG13/R or close to it by most people's estimation. That's not taking away from the great rock and interesting, mentally challenging climbing. The old anchors were rusted, featuring the largest chain I've ever seen on an anchor in Red Rock. We called this anchor "the Rime Of the Ancient Mariner" station while we were chopping it. Thanks to both of my lovely assistants-

Billcoe: "It's 5.9 ... I'd even say it's a heady one at that. I really enjoy this route or that reason."

+1

For info, a rap with a 70 meter rope won't reach the deck. But it will get you to the big horizontal ledge that runs across much of the base of the crag. From there, we traversed left and then downclimbed eventually using a strenuous undercling. Maybe one can instead traverse to the far right of the crag? ... or rap with two ropes.

you can just downclimb the starting crack for the route- its only about 5.4.

Straight off the epi chimneys, and this simply isn't 9. Amazing grace at refrigerator is a number grade harder easily. I think what is happening is it IS a heady lead. So people are mistaking 7+ or 8- PG-13 for 9. Just my opinion. I on-sighted this, except a neighboring party told me about the great nut placement right above the roof, as I was hesitating there for 10 minutes above several uninspiring pieces. The pro gets tricky halfway up and for tricky pro is also a tad sparse in places. I had 10 draws and wished I had 3 more- this route really wanders. Extend everything and don't pass up good placements.

Not the hardest nine in the world, given, but I thought Amazing Grace was kick-you-in-the-dick old school hard for the grade, and Epi's such different climbing that it's kinda ridick to bother comparing them. I mean, Freerider on El Cap is only .12d, that's exactly like busting out Straight Outta Compton at Chiselton, right?

The heady aspect is more challenging for most than the "extreme crimping and offwidthing". That said, it's got more meat to it than Fold Out, which is Herbst .8. Thus, =9*ish*.

Fun! A piece can be placed every 10 feet or so. While the placements aren't ideal I think they all would have held.