Sensory Desuetude  5.11a R

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980 Submitted By:  John Steiger on Feb 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>> Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows: All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27. All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows: Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th. Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Superb climbing, outrageous position, and thought-provoking protection mark this RR and Chip Chace creation. These two were on a tear in 1980, making the first ascents of other multi-pitch climbs such as Coming to Grips (5.11c/d R) and Uncarved Block (5.11c/d R) in the Dragoons and Swept Away (5.11c/d) at the Reef of Rock. These were bold first ascents, with the pair launching up steep, often overhanging terrain, knowing that runout climbing likely awaited. This route may not be as difficult as those other 1980 vintage problems, but it is as mentally challenging, particularly the first pitch. We found crack-n-ups to be important when we did it in the early 1980s, but with modern equipment like offsets and microcams, they may not be necessary.

Begin by chimneying up above the Inner Passage corridor until the crack system can be reached on the left wall. Stemming, thin jams, and face climbing lead up the crack (the crux) until possible to step left to another crack and more difficult moves to easier ground. Sling belay from gear. (2) Continue up the crack for a short pitch to a gear belay just past a small overhang on the right (5.9). (3) Climb the crack above, past two small roofs, the first on the right and second on the left. Trust yourself through the crux (5.10d) to easier climbing and a good belay from gear. (4) A short but stout offwidth leads to the top (5.9).

(NB: Bob Kerry’s 1997 guide describes the pitches differently (three 5.10+ pitches in a row), and frankly his description likely is straight from RR; the description here is how we broke it up).

Location 

Find the Coming to Grips corner (see post). This is the next crack system to the right. Rap Abracadaver (2 ropes).

Protection 

Double cams to 3.5”; full collection of wires, including at least one set of micronuts; crack-n-ups.