|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Ray Ringle, Chip Chace, 1980|
|Submitted By:||John Steiger on Feb 21, 2010|
|Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Sensory Desuetude||Add Comment|
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From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 8, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Clay Mansfield and I just repeated this route. It is loaded with committing climbing and awe-inspiring features but it also has some scary climbing.
We pitched it out a little differently from John's description. After the initial chimney we belayed at the base of the crack (60'). From here we climbed 140' to the top of pitch 2 (as described in the OP). After about 40' the protection became quite sketchy and the rock was crumbly in places. The next 30-40' required the utmost attention to placing the best gear possible and deliberate, careful climbing. Note: Falling and pulling the marginal pro here would likely result in the leader landing on the top of the pillar on pitch one. This part of the climb may be X rated. Gladly, we got to the crack on the left where the protection improves.
Two more pitches took us to the top. The first took the offwidth straight up to a stance under a roof/bulge. The moves to protect and pull through this were wild and airy. A #5 Camalot really helped here. We belayed 20' above the roof. The final pitch had committing moves up to a crack that continued to a 30' burly offwidth to the top.
We suggest the following rack:
Ball nuts #1-#3
Brass nuts – offsets may be helpful
Stoppers – offsets may be helpful
Doubles of cams from 00 Metolius (black Alien) to #1 Camalot
Triples of #2 and #3 Camalot
One #4 and one #5 Camalot (old Camalot sizes, not C4)