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Long trad lead with adequate protection. This climbs the left side of the face left of Italian Arete. Face moves and crack moves. When I lead this I lost my 1st piece, and got a little nervous so I placed a piece directly under the flake before the face with the bolt. I didn't put a runner on it and my partner didn't correct me. The rest of the way up the climb it felt like I was pulling an elephant. Man, was I glad to see the top.
1 bolt, 1 piton, lots of gear. Bring the small gear especially.
By John Steiger
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iíve got to disagree with those who have voted a bomb for this one. Compared to other 5.9 trad routes in BCC, this ranks right up there, IMO, with some great sections of slabby quartize. Even the Ruckmans give it 1 out of 3 stars. The pin was missing when we did it, but decent pro can be found with a modern rack (i.e., microcams, etc.). Good belay from gear on top, with an easy walk to Maudlinís anchors to descentó35m rap to the ground.