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Private Idaho
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900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 
Battered Sandwich T 
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Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 
Curious Poses T 
Eraserhead S 
I am in top a shader T 
I Can See Your House From Here S 
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 
Istanbul T 
Magic Fern T 
Noodle T 
prairie fire that wanders, The T 
S & S T 
Senior Citizens in Space T 
Spineless S 
Tea Bag S 
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 
unnamed 7 T 
Wet Dream T 

Senior Citizens in Space 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,080
Submitted By: sqwirll on Nov 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Jeff Matsushita leading Senior Citizens in Space (...

Description 

Senior Citizens in Space is the obvious right facing corner. The climbing is consistent with no obvious crux move. Layback up the corner split by a couple of cracks on the left side. The angle lessens as you get higher. One of the best moderates at Index.

Belay at the 2 bolt anchor at top.


Location 

Start 20' to the right of Battered Sandwich.

Descent:

Rappel from the 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

Heavy on finger sized cams. Gear to 2". Save a few small pieces for the top.



Photos of Senior Citizens in Space Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff M. in the upper jam section of Senior Citizens in Space (5.8).
Jeff M. in the upper jam section of Senior Citizen...
Josh on Senior Citizens in Space (5.8).
Josh on Senior Citizens in Space (5.8).
Jeff M. on the layback section of Senior Citizens in Space (5.8).
Jeff M. on the layback section of Senior Citizens ...
Josh
Josh
The right facing corner of Senior Citizens. The arete on the right is Spineless, and the arete on the left is I can see your house from here (an old project, still not led as of May 2012).
BETA PHOTO: The right facing corner of Senior Citizens. The ar...
Comments on Senior Citizens in Space Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 15, 2008

We cleaned the route on 3/22/08. It was still a little wet on 4/11/08.

By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really good route! It's the best 5.8 I've climbed and the best 5.8 at Index. For me the crux was where it steepens near the top, because there was a lot of debris in the crack and that made it a little hard to get jams.

By will the cam yarder
Jun 26, 2010

the crux for me was definitely getting into the corner system. after that the climb is a cruise. one of the best leads i've done anywhere!

By Korrigan
Sep 29, 2012

Nice route. Could be a 5.8 move getting onto it but from there it's pretty easy. Upper section is quality but not harder than 5.6.