Senior Citizen Sabotage
|Original: || YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Mike Cronin|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, and Fall. Gets great shade early in the day.|
|Page Views: ||12|
|Submitted By: ||BBQ on Jul 14, 2011|
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Now that's one pissed off senior citizen!
Another awesome Spearfish Canyon 5.10d which might even crack a few 5.11a moves at you just to keep you on your toes.
Starts on a slopey slab which quickly turns into a slightly overhung cracktastic experience. Use the crack, use the pockets next to the crack, use the pockets in the crack. Use a toecam, use a sidepull, just hang on there, sloopy this thing gets exciting and stays on you all the way to the end.
Moving from left to right, this would be the 6th route on this wall. This route is just to the right of Blue Hair Headache and Blue Hair Headache is just to the right of Dead Residents...I think you can find it.
10 bolts. Open shut anchors. Your belayer can sit on the stump, so they might want you to get right on this route after you send Blue Hair Headache.
By Greg Parker
Jul 21, 2011
I love the canyon too, but not every route is worthy of 4 stars...