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1st Pitch: Start at the beginning of the Guillotine, but partway up veer a little more right. This makes for a more sustained grade. Head for the right side of a pocket ledge a little higher and about 15' to the right of the Guillotine ledge. You will be about 5' from the rollover edge of the face as you approach the top of the pitch. Near the top of the pitch is the 5.7 crux; some sloping hands and feet in an area without placements, not quite runout. (185')
2nd Pitch: Go straight up from climber's right side of ledge to a ledge above, then continue upward, drifting right to a substantial tree. First part of the lead is exposed 5.6. (about 75')
3rd Pitch: Go up gully with a crack to a face, then up face. As you ascend you first drift a little right, then drift a little left. First part is 5.5. (about 70')
Route changes character as you ascend, and the beginning of the second pitch is most gratifyng.
The route starts at the same place as the Guillotine and ends up on the highest bit of the crag. You can scramble climbers left and rap down Juniper overhang, carefully scramble climbers right on a discontinuous ledge to a second and final rap station, or walk down around the west end of the crag.
Bring a typical El Rito rack with cams to 3.0 or better 3.5. and an extra piece of sling material at least 8' long. This is a totally trad route. At second belay sling knob and tie to 2 larger cams placed in shallow crack like feature. If you tie all together it will probably make an adequate anchor.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
P1 can be broken into two by belaying at ~105 feet at an adequate ledge (recently cleaned) at the lower end of an obvious vertical crack. Higher up, the route passes just a bit to the right of the guillotine feature of Guillotine, and then trends right a bit more and then up to the right end of the "pocket ledge".
For an anchor at the pocket ledge, there is a big broad horn of questionable attachment. Alternately, the back of the ledge has a spot for ~3 and ~4 inch pieces of gear.
P2 & P3 are delightful.
By Steven Reneau
Apr 26, 2013
p2 + p3 can be linked without bad rope drag.