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Seneca Rocks, New River Gorge, Red River Gorge
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By Mark Kneisel
From Seattle, Washington
Aug 10, 2014
Hey everyone!

I'm climbing Seneca Rocks starting Aug 11 for a few days,

Then New River Gorge for several days,

Then Red River Gorge for several days.

Any recommendations for classic routes - any grade sport and grad up to 5.12.

Any recommendations for camping.

And anyone that would like to join is welcome!!!

Mark

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By Mark Thesing
From Central Indiana
Aug 10, 2014
I'll jump in on Seneca and say they don't have much to offer in the way of sport climbing. It is mostly trad there. If you're comfortable with trad, they have many multi pitch classic lines in most grades.

For camping, the last time I was out there I stayed at Seneca Shadows Campground While I find the campground very nice, I have a problem with paying for a campsite when I grew up climbing at Seneca and camping for free.

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By BrianWS
Aug 10, 2014
For camping at the New, go to Ray's campground in Hico.

1199 Sunday Rd, Hico, WV 25854
(304) 658-4386

It's about 6 minutes from the bridge area crags, 10 minutes to the Meadow River crags, and 20 minutes to Summersville Lake -- probably the most centrally located campground if you are looking to sample all of the rock in this region. Super nice owners, great amenities (hot showers, laundry, ice, power, etc). 9 bucks a night, with free coffee every morning.

If you don't have any partners lined up, the AAC campground is a good place to hook up with some. The AAC is also a nice campground with cool management and good proximity to the gorge proper, but I'm extremely partial to Ray's after many years of excellent service.

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By Kirby
From DC
Aug 10, 2014
Seneca: do triple s, crack of dawn, cottonmouth-venom, sidewinder, breakneck direct, and agony. All located next to each other near the face of 1000 pitons. West pole is my favorite easy/moderate route there, just a short hike north from the above-mentioned face.

Camping at seneca shadows is good. The pizza at the front porch restaurant is mediocre but nice after you get hungry. Bring a six-pack from the store right below the restaurant. Climbing shop has wifi but no cell service in the area.

Cheers!

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By Mark Kneisel
From Seattle, Washington
Aug 10, 2014
Thanks for the beta Brian!

Mark -I hear you regarding the camping, but I'll probably camp at the Seneca area since its one mile from the crag. Multi-pitch grad is what I live for so that sounds great!
Mark Kneisel
206-858-3657

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By Mark Kneisel
From Seattle, Washington
Aug 10, 2014
Thanks for the info Kirby!

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By Mark Kneisel
From Seattle, Washington
Aug 10, 2014
The vehicle parked at camp or crag will be a new blue Subaru Forester and I'll be stopping by the pizza house tonight around 8pm or so, cheers!

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By Mark Thesing
From Central Indiana
Aug 10, 2014
Kirby gave you some good routes. Another nice one is High Test. It is long and sustained. 5.9+ and would probably go at 5.10 any place else. On the easier side you have Ecstasy and Solar. Both Seneca 5.7 classic. The second pitch of Solar has to be my favorite 5.7 pitch anywhere and dumps you right on the summit.

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By Chris Watkins
From Jackson, Ohio
Aug 11, 2014
I will be in the area 8/15-17. Give me a call if you need someone who knows area. Chris (740) 418-3157

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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Aug 11, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
For all day classic 5.10 trad at NRG don't miss Beauty Mtn. They just keep coming at you one after the other from Burning Buttress on. Chock full of 3 and 4 star single pitch lines that will blow you away. Also, Orchard area at Fern Buttress. Same thing. A whole cluster of classic 5.10s mostly 3 and 4 star that will keep you occupied and grinning all day.

As to the sport- take your pick. There are classic lines scattered throughout the area. For a good cluster of classic 3 and 4 star bolted lines, Snake Buttress @ Endless Wall and surrounding areas have a ton of great tall 5.11ish routes. The area has more than 3k routes, but the areas that I've mentioned have a ton packed in a small area, so you can do the approach and pretty much set 'em up and knock 'em down without having to do a whole lot of searching and walking once you get there.

Enjoy!

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By Mark Kneisel
From Seattle, Washington
Aug 12, 2014
Seneca has been rained out everyday, we hiked up and scoped out fun looking routes per the local guides beta near 'wall of 1000 pitons. We may stay one more night, then off to NRG. I'll check this site when we arrive. Thanks for the great info everyone.

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By Mark Thesing
From Central Indiana
Aug 12, 2014
Probably a little late but it looks like Seneca's weather will be improving tomorrow.

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By BrianWS
Aug 12, 2014
Mark Kneisel wrote:
Seneca has been rained out everyday, we hiked up and scoped out fun looking routes per the local guides beta near 'wall of 1000 pitons. We may stay one more night, then off to NRG. I'll check this site when we arrive. Thanks for the great info everyone.


If you're still in Seneca, check out the Cave routes at the south end -- there are a few extremely steep sport lines (12- to 13) that will stay dry, provided the rain or condensation hasn't been too heavy. The ones I've done are pretty good, and folks who have climbed at Rifle say that they feel very similar in character.

A few bolted and trad climbs across the street at the southern pillar will stay dry in a light rain as well.

If all else fails, hang out with Tommy at the shop (with the climbing wall and Thai-style bungalow) for some local lore and general hilarity.

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By Mark Kneisel
From Seattle, Washington
Aug 12, 2014
On the way to New River from Seneca, should be pulling into Pies n Pints in a few hours!! And ready to climb tomorrow!!
206-525-3985

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