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Routes in Main Crag
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"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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"Steeple" Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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All Holds Barred TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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College Rock Traverse 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V3 6A |
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Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exersize Left to the Reader T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fill in The Blank TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flunked Again TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grunge Gully Direct TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jocks TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mal-triculation TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mantel V3 6A |
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Mike Doonesbury Returns TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pop Test T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Preppies TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Road Trip T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seven Sisters TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Techno-Dweeb TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wasted T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 32 ft (10 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,634 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
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Description
This is easyish at the bottom, and then becomes technical and sequency at the crux. There are several variations.
1. start left of middle and climb up the obvious ledges and lips. using smallish and/or awkward holds, balance and reach right for the flake, and step right. Climb easy horizontal handcracks and small feet to the top.
2. start left of middle and begin as 1. Pass flake on the left using small crimps, reach horizontal cracks as before.
3. starting in the middle of the face, climb up the obvious ledges and lips to the blank face. Using various small crimps and awkward feet, pass the right hand and of the flake to the horizontal cracks. Don't bounce a hand from the flake bottom! go straight for the jug! (one 5.9+/5.10- crimp move).
1. start left of middle and climb up the obvious ledges and lips. using smallish and/or awkward holds, balance and reach right for the flake, and step right. Climb easy horizontal handcracks and small feet to the top.
2. start left of middle and begin as 1. Pass flake on the left using small crimps, reach horizontal cracks as before.
3. starting in the middle of the face, climb up the obvious ledges and lips to the blank face. Using various small crimps and awkward feet, pass the right hand and of the flake to the horizontal cracks. Don't bounce a hand from the flake bottom! go straight for the jug! (one 5.9+/5.10- crimp move).
Location
Halfway along College Rock - between the College Rock Chimney Buttress, and the detached monolith "Steeple" - is a flat veritcal face
with several foot ledges, small lips, and toe ledges across it. Towards the top, just left of center, and below the two topmost horizontal hand cracks, is a noticable flake the splits from the face at the flake bottom.
with several foot ledges, small lips, and toe ledges across it. Towards the top, just left of center, and below the two topmost horizontal hand cracks, is a noticable flake the splits from the face at the flake bottom.
Protection
Set TR anchors from cracks in the face of the wall behind the ledge above the climbs, or from trees 20-30 feet back from the face. You could lead it, if you were daring. There's a protectible crack low, and two more near the top, and nothing in between. So, basically, if you lead it, you're freesoloing up to the top cracks. "The leader must not fall", as they say. Have fun!
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