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Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart 
Anthill Direct 
Archer McLanahan 
Back in Black 
Black Top 
Book of Numbers 
Bulge Indirect 
Bulge, The 
C'est La Fin 
C'est La Morte 
C'est La Vie 
Chromium Shore 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony 
Crack Variation 
East Overhang 
East Side 
Edge of Night, The 
Flakes, The 
Genuine Risk Takers 
High Noon 
Horizontal Beginnings 
Je T'Aime 
La Vie d' Pansey 
Le Boomerang 
Left Side of Roark, The 
Mental Cruelty 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) 
Original Anthill 
PA's Variation 
Pansee Sauvage 
Pseudo Sidetrack 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
Restless Nights 
Semi-Wild Slab 
Shades of Gray 
Sticky Feet 
To Night 
Trinity Cracks 
Vaporizer, The 
Variation to Lower Meadows 
Walk the Talk 
Whistle Stop, The 
Whittle Wall, The 
Whittle Whisk 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler, Dan Stone, Glen Randall, 1978
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Aug 25, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    This is a cool, "semi-wild" route left of P2 of Anthill Direct that is rarely done. I've never seen anyone on it, and there was no chalk. I've wanted to do this since I first noticed it a couple of years ago from P2 of Anthill Direct.

    The adventure is good, position is good, high above the creek and across from The Edge, but the approach and descent involve some work, and the rock has some powdery green lichen which raises the stress level. And there's the scary roof crux.... Maybe 1.5 stars?

    There's no gear at the crux roof. The gear is 4 to 5' below, and it's one bomber big brass and another fair brass with better gear below. The roof is reachy and strenuous, and it's not totally clear how to do it. I nearly fell off when my left foot skated off a flake I was pushing off of to increase my reach.

    The route: the Rossiter topo shows the climb starting on P2 of Anthill Direct and then angling left across the slab to the base of the vertical crack. We climbed further left, skirting the initial ceiling, up a left angling ramp (good horns to sling), and then angled right on easy ground to the base of the crack. You could also climb more directly up the slab with no gear. The lower part of the crack, up the slab to the base of the headwall, has good gear. The first moves up the headwall are a bit spooky. With difficulty, you can get a fair medium brass to protect these moves. The climbing above is well protected and interesting, with a balancy move to get up to the roof. Get as much gear as you can, since there is no gear at or above the roof. Climb straight through the roof (don't move right through it, although that may also work), protect your second well, and traverse straight right to the Anthill Direct P2 belay.

    Descent: if you're familiar and comfortable with Anthill Direct, the best "descent" may be to continue up on Anthill Direct. Otherwise, you can rappel to the Upper Ramp and then off of good bolt anchors in two single-rope or one double-rope rappels to the ground. There are currently two good pins at the top of P2 of Anthill Direct, but there may be no slings and rings. You'll want webbing and rings or leaver biners. If you want to backup the pins with a nut, you'll want more webbing. We left a good, big brass nut in a crack to the right and connected it all with an old cordalette. The rappel passes some large blocks and you land to the right of the Anthill Direct P1 anchor bolts. Easily hike left to those bolts, and then rap from there to the ground.


    Approach: Semi-Wild starts from the lowest end of the Upper Ramp, at the top of P1 of Anthill Direct. It's the crack to the left of P2 of Anthill Direct that starts about 1/2 way up the pitch. Get there via Touch and Go or Anthill Direct or by one of the variations right of Touch and Go. Make sure to belay at the Anthill Direct anchors close to the upper wall rather than at the Touch and Go anchors.


    2+ sets small cams from green to red Alien, doubles above that to #2/yellow Camalot, 1 or 2 sets brass nuts, 1 set bigger nuts to 1", 20 slings, 1/2 full length, and 2 ropes to rappel. Double ropes are handy on the lead. Bring webbing and backup gear to rig the rap anchor.

    Photos of Semi-Wild Slideshow Add Photo
    Pulling the roof. There's a thin rest below this point. There are a couple of decent holds above the roof and a bunch of rounded ones. It's not obvious how to safely make the move (and I didn't do it safely!). The gear is below my feet and is 2 big brass nuts. The gear below that is solid. <br /> <br />Photo by Chuck Graves.
    Pulling the roof. There's a thin rest below this p...
    Tim miraculously led this sketchy route.
    Tim miraculously led this sketchy route.
    Comments on Semi-Wild Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 26, 2005

    I'm pretty sure "Upper Ramp" should be replaced with "Lower Meadow" in a few places in this description.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 19, 2005

    For the second time in 8 years I've backed off of this pitch- there is a nest of yellow jackets in it about 2 meters up the crack from the blank slab. They are aggressive.

    By Tom Hanson
    Sep 22, 2005

    Tony's tale reminds me of an experience I had on this route back in late eighties:I had to back off S.W. because I had blown out the inside toes of my Sportiva Monolo's. Remember the old green shoes that were built with a symetrical last. The idea was that the shoes could be worn on either foot (there was no left and right) and when you blew out the inside toe, you could just swap them around and wear them on the other foot. A nice idea but the problem was that once you wore them they conformed to your foot and then when you tried to swap them, it was like trying to wear standard shoes on the wrong feet.Anyway, my feet were in absolute agony, so my partners and I decided to bail. I was so distraught that, without thinking, I tossed the rap line down without calling "rope!"I was [embarrassed] beyond belief when my rope nailed a guy who was roping up at the base. That guy was Layton Kor. He had come out of hibernation and was climbing with Justin Kramer, a kid from his neighborhood. I finally got to meet my hero and the circumstances of our meeting was not as I had hoped.Boy did I feel like an an idiot. The one time I tossed the bail line without giving warning and I nail Colorado's most prolific and famous climber.