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Adamants, The 
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Mount Sir Donald 
Norns Range 
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Valhalla Range 

Selkirk Mountains 


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Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: SELKIRK MOUNTAINS
Dawson group across the Illecill...


GEOGRAPHY

The Selkirk Mountains are hard to discern as a discrete range because they are surrounded by the other big ranges of the Columbia Mountains (green outline on map). The Rogers Pass transportation corridor, Trans Canada Highway One, divides the Selkirks into two halves, the Northern Selkirk Mountains and the Southern Selkirk Mountains.

To the east, the Northern Selkirks are separated from the Canadian Rockies by the Columbia River Trench (purple). The northern end of the range is enclosed by the Big Bend of the Columbia River; where the river starts its run southward to Revelstoke and then the United States (The Big Bend is now filled with Kinbasket Lake and Lake Revelstoke). To the west, across the southward flowing Columbia, are the Monashee Mountains (yellow outline on map).

SELKIRK MOUNTAINS <br />outlined in green
SELKIRK MOUNTAINS
outlined in green
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2012

Looking northwest across the Columbia River to the Monashee Range.  Photo taken from Mount Revelstoke National Park in the Selkirk Range.
Looking northwest across the Columbia River to the Monashee Range. Photo taken from Mount Revelstoke National Park in the Selkirk Range.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2012


The Southern Selkirks are squeezed between the Purcell Mountains (blue) to the east and the Monashee Mountains to the west. Southward, the Selkirks diminish as they extend into Idaho. Chimney Rock, above Priest Lake, is the southern limit of "the goods".

Separating the Selkirk Mountains from the Purcell Mountains is the deep valley of the Beaver and Duncan Rivers. There is no paved highway between the Selkirks and Purcells. The boundary is hidden in wilderness, often misunderstood, and only of academic interest.
View down 2,000 meters to the Beaver River from the summit of north Terminal Peak. Across the river are the Purcell Mountains.
View down 2,000 meters to the Beaver River from the summit of north Terminal Peak. Across the river are the Purcell Mountains.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2012


KOOTENAYS

On political maps, The name Kootenays refers to three well defined regional districts of BC. The Canadian Alpine Journal will sometimes have a climb or two listed under Kootenays, as if they were different range of mountains.

There is no such mountain range, except in the minds of the residents of southeastern BC. The Canadian Alpine Journal does not dismiss this perspective. For over a century, the southern peaks of the Monashees, Selkirks, Purcells, and Canadian Rockies have been called the Kootenay Mountains by locals.
Sunshine Crack (5.8), a Kootenay classic.  Located at Kinnaird Bluffs, along the Columbia River, between Trail and Castlegar, BC.
Sunshine Crack (5.8), a Kootenay classic. Located at Kinnaird Bluffs, along the Columbia River, between Trail and Castlegar, BC.
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2012


HISTORY

The Selkirk Mountains at Rogers Pass are the oldest climbing area in North America. Earlier climbs where made by scientists, surveyors, and "rugged individualists". They certainly bagged some great peaks like Mount Rainier in 1870. But these early climbs were one time affairs or part of the job (Jones, Climbing in North America, 1976).

The first technical climb, using rope and done for sport, was in 1888. Skilled alpinists from Europe made the ascent of Mount Bonney (10,194'). First, Rev. Henry Swanzy rode a horse along the unfinished railroad to cross Rogers Pass and suss out the climbing. Then, he went back to the Alps to find partners (Chris Jones again).
MOUNT BONNEY on right <br />
MOUNT BONNEY on right

Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 13, 2012

Mt Sir Donald was nabbed just two years later by Swiss guides with more advanced rope-work. Other people who climbed regularly for sport soon followed, eager for new terrain as the Golden Age of the Alps ended. They called this place the "Canadian Alps". (Chris Jones, Climbing in North America, 1976).

SELKIRK CLIMBING GUIDEBOOKS

One hundred years ago there were already several guide books to climbing in the Selkirk Range. Today, Selkirks North and Selkirks South, by Dave Jones, both printed in 2001.

William Putnam's 1971, 5th edition, AAC Guide to the Interior ranges of British Columbia is still useful because he comprehensively covers over seventy years of climbing, even including the Valhalla Mountains (out of print).

For ski mountaineers, and climbers seeking to better educate themselves, there is an important book by Chic Scott: Summits and Icefields . His book covers all levels, from basic information for roadside tele-glades up to advanced details for the great ski traverses of each range. Good beta for most huts and some big peaks too.

For rock climbers, the West Kootenay Rock Guide, by Aaron Kristiansen & Vince Hempsall covers all the low altitude crags from the Valhallas south to the border. Kootenay climbing beta is also availiable at climbing.inthekoots.com














The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Selkirk Mountains:
Northwest Ridge   5.4 X     Trad, Alpine, 2400 feet, Grade IV   Mount Sir Donald
South Ridge   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   Valhalla Range : Mount Gimli
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn   5.10+     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   The Adamants
Browse More Classics in Selkirk Mountains

Featured Route For Selkirk Mountains
South Ridge, First Pitch <br />Photo by Peter Rowat <br />Family Trip..., CAJ, 1974 <br /> <br />According to Peter Rowat's report this is Peter Koedt leading the "magnificent jam crack."   A storm ended the attempt after this pitch.  Peter K returned later that summer. <br /> <br />(Nikon COOLPIX L22 studio close-up of CAJ print)

South Ridge 5.8  International : Canada : ... : Mount Gimli
HISTORY In 1974, a Kamloops expedition choppered in with three children, a sitter, and enough friends to climb everything worth climbing. This route was attempted, and all the members listed above did the first two pitches before weather forced a retreat. That september Peter Rowat and Peter Koedt returned to finish the ridge. I hear Southeast Ridge getting the most name usage, but the reported name was South Face in the Canadian Alpine Journal (1974). Peter Rowat and Co made the fir...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Selkirk Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
THE VALHALLA MOUNTAINS <br /> <br />Midguard and Asgard (r) <br /> <br />Asgard's face has a ten pitch 5.8 on good rock. The left ridge, 5.7 goodness.  No Helicopter bills!! <br /> <br />(Nikon COOLPIX L22, AA batteries)

THE VALHALLA MOUNTAINS

Midguard and Asgard (r)

A...


MT DAWSON (3,393m) highest summit right <br />MT MACOUN (3,033m) left <br />Taken from above Perley Rock, looking south across the Illecillewaet Glacier, September 24th, 2012.

BETA PHOTO: MT DAWSON (3,393m) highest summit right
MT MACOUN ...


Sport climbing on a 5.6 at Slocan Bluffs.

BETA PHOTO: Sport climbing on a 5.6 at Slocan Bluffs.


Comments on Selkirk Mountains Add Comment
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By Kevin Craig
Apr 26, 2008

The definitive and most up-to-date guidebooks for the range are "Selkirks North" and "Selkirks South" by David P. Jones. The dividing line for North & South is roughly Rogers Pass. Note that these books do not cover the Bugaboos which technically are part of the Selkirks (the Piche' guide is the ticket for the Bugs).

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 30, 2011

The mountains of British Columbia are very difficult to outline. A "Roadtrip" issue of Rock & Ice once stated that the Bugaboos are part of the Canadian Rockies, so even the experts have trouble with the complicated geography of British Columbia.

It should be pointed out that Dave Jones really knows his topic. The Bugaboos are indeed a part of the Purcell Mountains, not Selkirks.

I put a small geographic explanation of British Columbia's Mountains on the Columbia Mountains introduction page.

This funky map might be of use too.