Self Mutilation 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Mar 8, 2005 |
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Oh noes! Whipper!
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Description Self Mutilation climbs up to and around the right side of the big overhang. The 5.11+ version begins in a crack on the left to gain the roof. (Climbing the face/corner directly to the roof would definitely make the climb much harder, probably 5.12+.)
Technical moves below the roof quickly give way to thuggery, as the climber strains to reach the anchors. You can see this line from the highway.
Protection bolts.
Stew on the end of the super balancy bottom part.
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Stew just about to get into the business end of Se...
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Clipping!
photo by: John Knoernschild
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Stew fighting to finish!
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| Comments on Self Mutilation |
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 4, 2006
| I think this line is probably the best at the wall. Does anyone know if the direct start ever got climbed? |
By Chris Hirsch
Sep 4, 2006
| You mean from that big ledge, straight over the thin face to the right of the crack? Yeah my buddy climb it. But he forgot to bring another draw for the anchors, which got really sketchy. But anyways, the face was really balancy and we guessed it to be 12c/d maybe? |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 23, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Broke off part of the two hand side pull today underneath the roof. Still goes at the same grade. Maybe an inch more reach on it though.
Also did a direct start that is right of the shallow seam but an big block with an under-cling seems ready to ride! Keep your belayer out of the way. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.11d
| Man, did I do some wild shit on this route! Looking at these photos now it seems that people choose to go the "reachy" way to get underneath the roof. I chose to get a toe hook, crimp and bump up to get under the roof. This route is pretty damn good and a tricky onsight. To reduce rope drag extend the 3rd draw, not the one directly under the roof... that one can be easily reached from the undercling. |
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